Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Ed Webster & Maria Hannus June 1995 (some pitches done earlier)|
|Page Views:||278 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Sep 9, 2015|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer|
DescriptionSTART- by soloing/climbing the first 50-60 ft of the Dike route and moving left to an expansive, nearly flat area about 75 ft off the ground. Choice of a couple of double bolt anchors.
Be aware that there may have been some rockfall (not the rockfall from the Statmuller-Griffin) that may have changed P3 and/or P4.
P1 - Up the white rock about 25 ft left of the Dike to a bolt (careful clipping, once my foot nearly blew while reaching to clip!). Then up into a shallow corner (old pin, 5.7) and bolt above. [couple of ways to get up to that bolt]. Up to a 3rd bolt and belay at a dbl bolt anchor on the Dike. 150-160 ft 5.7 / 5.5-5.6R [NOTE: with a 70m rope one can rap from here to the new dbl bolt anchor at the big pocket on the Dike Route, then back to the flat area and onto the ground in 3 single-rope raps.]
P2 - Easily up the dike for about 80 ft to a belay on a tree ledge 80ft 5.4-5.5
P3 - (originally a variant of Dike/Darcy-Crowther) Up and right to an overlap and up on horizontal flakes to a crack in white blocks; belay above the crack. 120-130 ft 5.6
P4 - Move right and then face climb up a thin crack (5.8 / 5.9-, pins) and flake to reach the large overlap; climb over this (crux 5.9) at a bolt to a dbl bolt belay. 75 -85 ft 5.9
P5 - Up a small arch and onto a slab to the right, then up the prow (bolt, 5.7) to a double bolt anchor below the Dike's huge roof. 70-80 ft 5.7
Rap or finish on Dike