Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ed Webster & Maria Hannus June 1995 (some pitches done earlier)
Page Views: 407 total · 9/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Sep 9, 2015
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

START- by soloing/climbing the first 50-60 ft of the Dike route and moving left to an expansive, nearly flat area about 75 ft off the ground. Choice of a couple of double bolt anchors.

Be aware that there may have been some rockfall (not the rockfall from the Statmuller-Griffin) that may have changed P3 and/or P4.

P1 - Up the white rock about 25 ft left of the Dike to a bolt (careful clipping, once my foot nearly blew while reaching to clip!). Then up into a shallow corner (old pin, 5.7) and bolt above. [couple of ways to get up to that bolt]. Up to a 3rd bolt and belay at a dbl bolt anchor on the Dike. 150-160 ft 5.7 / 5.5-5.6R [NOTE: with a 70m rope one can rap from here to the new dbl bolt anchor at the big pocket on the Dike Route, then back to the flat area and onto the ground in 3 single-rope raps.]

P2 - Easily up the dike for about 80 ft to a belay on a tree ledge 80ft 5.4-5.5

P3 - (originally a variant of Dike/Darcy-Crowther) Up and right to an overlap and up on horizontal flakes to a crack in white blocks; belay above the crack. 120-130 ft 5.6

P4 - Move right and then face climb up a thin crack (5.8 / 5.9-, pins) and flake to reach the large overlap; climb over this (crux 5.9) at a bolt to a dbl bolt belay. 75 -85 ft 5.9

P5 - Up a small arch and onto a slab to the right, then up the prow (bolt, 5.7) to a double bolt anchor below the Dike's huge roof. 70-80 ft 5.7

Rap or finish on Dike

Location

Just left of, and above the start of Dike Route

Protection

Usual Rack, Yellow Alien or equiv. to back up pin on P1.

Photos

Matt Desenberg
Limerick, ME
Matt Desenberg   Limerick, ME
Went to do this today and the split block(s) at the top of pitch 3 are gone.There looked to be a bit more loose rock/debris in the area of the old belay station. Anyone climbed this recently? Aug 8, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.9
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.9
I'll take a look next time I'm around that part of the cliff. Was there any fresh debris at the base? (Not to be confused with the fairly big rockfall that came off from below the big pine tree rap on Sea of Holes/Stadmuller-Griffin a couple of years ago.)

NOTE: Concerned climbers could always do the route by cutting right after P1 to the big pine and then up to the Sea of Holes dbl bolt anchor (as a "Pathfinder P2"). From there the crux overlap/overhang could be approached by moving up, then left to just below the OverLap (In terms of route difficulty this climbing would be about equal to the actual Pathfinder P2 & P3, and actually a bit more esthetic) then continue over the crux. Aug 9, 2016
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
The crux on this route is a mesmerizing little sandbag. A fun excursion on a delightfully quiet part of the cliff. Feb 12, 2018