Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ed Webster & Maria Hannus June 1995 (some pitches done earlier)
Page Views: 954 total · 13/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Sep 9, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

START- by soloing/climbing the first 50-60 ft of the Dike route and moving left to an expansive, nearly flat area about 75 ft off the ground. Choice of a couple of double bolt anchors.

Be aware that there may have been some rockfall (not the rockfall from the Statmuller-Griffin) that may have changed P3 and/or P4.

P1 - Up the white rock about 25 ft left of the Dike to a bolt (careful clipping, once my foot nearly blew while reaching to clip!). Then up into a shallow corner (old pin, 5.7) and bolt above. [couple of ways to get up to that bolt]. Up to a 3rd bolt and belay at a dbl bolt anchor on the Dike. 150-160 ft 5.7 / 5.5-5.6R [NOTE: with a 70m rope one can rap from here to the new dbl bolt anchor at the big pocket on the Dike Route, then back to the flat area and onto the ground in 3 single-rope raps.]

P2 - Easily up the dike for about 80 ft to a belay on a tree ledge 80ft 5.4-5.5 

P3 - (originally a variant of Dike/Darcy-Crowther) Up and right to an overlap and up on horizontal flakes to a crack in white blocks; belay above the crack. 120-130 ft 5.6 

P4 - Move right and then face climb up a thin crack (5.8 / 5.9-, pins) and flake to reach the large overlap; climb over this (crux 5.9) at a bolt to a dbl bolt belay. 75 -85 ft 5.9 

P5 - Up a small arch and onto a slab to the right, then up the prow (bolt, 5.7) to a double bolt anchor below the Dike's huge roof. 70-80 ft 5.7

COMMENT- Update on the route from Steve Marshall; thanks Steve! :
   "Cleaned up some choss on this route 5/11/19. The belay on P3 atop the "crack in white blocks" (which have fallen off) had some football-sized chunks left over that were only held up by some dirt . It would suck if somebody knocked those down with a party below, so we cleaned them off. Two pins were put in downward-facing flakes, one felt solid but one fell out when I merely touched it. The pin itself didn't seem too corroded so the intact one is probably still good. There is some crummy rock here but also some solid pockets to build a belay in with medium cams.
 
 Despite the rockfall the route is unaffected, P3 is still fine at the grade and the "crack" is now a juggy flake with good gear.  
 
 Really fun route, some 5.fun slab, some heads-up R slabbin' and a solid 5.9 mantel-into-slab crux move with a bolt at your face."  

Rap or finish on Dike route

Location

Just left of, and above the start of Dike Route

Protection

Usual Rack, Yellow Alien or equiv. to back up pin on P1.

Photos