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Routes in 7. The Slabs

Beginners Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Beginners Easy Variation T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Beginners Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Black Jade T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Booklet, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cormier-Magness Indirect, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cormier-Magness Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Horse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dike Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fingertip Trip T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Girdle Traverse of Whitehorse Ledge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 PG13
Interloper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Man O War T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Miner-Joseph-King Dike (aka Dike route left start), The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ninth Wave, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pathfinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sea of Holes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slabs Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sliding Board T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Slipshod T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Buttress of Wankers Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Stop if you Dare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Tidal Wave T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Waiting for Comeau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wave Bye Bye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Wave Length T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wedge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Wilderness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
White Zone, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ed Webster & Maria Hannus June 1995 (some pitches done earlier)
Page Views: 260 total, 9/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Sep 9, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

START- by soloing/climbing the first 50-60 ft of the Dike route and moving left to an expansive, nearly flat area about 75 ft off the ground. Choice of a couple of double bolt anchors.

Be aware that there may have been some rockfall (not the rockfall from the Statmuller-Griffin) that may have changed P3 and/or P4.

P1 - Up the white rock about 25 ft left of the Dike to a bolt (careful clipping, once my foot nearly blew while reaching to clip!). Then up into a shallow corner (old pin, 5.7) and bolt above. [couple of ways to get up to that bolt]. Up to a 3rd bolt and belay at a dbl bolt anchor on the Dike. 150-160 ft 5.7 / 5.5-5.6R [NOTE: with a 70m rope one can rap from here to the new dbl bolt anchor at the big pocket on the Dike Route, then back to the flat area and onto the ground in 3 single-rope raps.]

P2 - Easily up the dike for about 80 ft to a belay on a tree ledge 80ft 5.4-5.5

P3 - (originally a variant of Dike/Darcy-Crowther) Up and right to an overlap and up on horizontal flakes to a crack in white blocks; belay above the crack. 120-130 ft 5.6

P4 - Move right and then face climb up a thin crack (5.8 / 5.9-, pins) and flake to reach the large overlap; climb over this (crux 5.9) at a bolt to a dbl bolt belay. 75 -85 ft 5.9

P5 - Up a small arch and onto a slab to the right, then up the prow (bolt, 5.7) to a double bolt anchor below the Dike's huge roof. 70-80 ft 5.7

Rap or finish on Dike

Location

Just left of, and above the start of Dike Route

Protection

Usual Rack, Yellow Alien or equiv. to back up pin on P1.

Photos

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
 
I'll take a look next time I'm around that part of the cliff. Was there any fresh debris at the base? (Not to be confused with the fairly big rockfall that came off from below the big pine tree rap on Sea of Holes/Stadmuller-Griffin a couple of years ago.)

NOTE: Concerned climbers could always do the route by cutting right after P1 to the big pine and then up to the Sea of Holes dbl bolt anchor (as a "Pathfinder P2"). From there the crux overlap/overhang could be approached by moving up, then left to just below the OverLap (In terms of route difficulty this climbing would be about equal to the actual Pathfinder P2 & P3, and actually a bit more esthetic) then continue over the crux. Aug 9, 2016
Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
Went to do this today and the split block(s) at the top of pitch 3 are gone.There looked to be a bit more loose rock/debris in the area of the old belay station. Anyone climbed this recently? Aug 8, 2016