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Routes in 7. The Slabs

Beginners Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Beginners Easy Variation T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Beginners Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Black Jade T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Booklet, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cormier-Magness Indirect, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cormier-Magness Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Horse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dike Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fingertip Trip T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Girdle Traverse of Whitehorse Ledge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 PG13
Interloper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Man O War T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Miner-Joseph-King Dike (aka Dike route left start), The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ninth Wave, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pathfinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sea of Holes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slabs Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sliding Board T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Slipshod T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Buttress of Wankers Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Stop if you Dare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Tidal Wave T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Waiting for Comeau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wave Bye Bye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Wave Length T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wedge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Wilderness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
White Zone, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: A. Comeau A.Dow D. stone 1979
Page Views: 238 total, 2/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jul 5, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

An awesome route that sees little traffic but deserves more.... It's like combining the cruxes of Three Birches and Bombardment in to one pitch.... You start by heading up a corner, then traversing to the right under a roof (not as hard and more fun than the Three Birches roof section), then you go up a crack and at a pair of old pins, make a tough move left across a slab to the left-leaning crack that can be loosely compared to Bombardment (5.8).... As the crack ends, you climb straight up to a two bolt anchor....

Location

The far left end of the slabs just to the right of Short Order.... Look for the corner leading to a roof heading right....

Protection

Normal rack.... Finger-sized cams low down and bigger up top.... A couple pins at the halfway point.... Use long runners on everything....

One 60m rope stretch rappel will put you back on the ground....
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
"there is no fixed anchor at the trees" what???try a bit of webbing Jun 9, 2014
kevin neville
Somerville, MA
  5.9
kevin neville   Somerville, MA
  5.9
The first pitch is excellent. Lots of fun and varied moves, good gear, consistent difficulty throughout the pitch.

The Handren guidebook describes P2 as 5.7: up the slab, past a bolt, to the tree ledge. It's very runout! There's a spot for a 0.1 X4 about 15 feet above the belay; then the ancient rusty 1/4 inch wouldn't-want-to-whip-on-it; then another 70 feet or so with nothing. Route beta: from the belay, step right and then back up left. The direct left start would go, but it's harder and puts you right over the bolts/belayer if you slip. Then 2/3 of the way up, at the wide shallow dish, it's easier to move several feet right before finishing up. There was no fixed anchor at the trees, so we did a belayed traverse/bushwhack about 60 feet climber's left to the big pine atop Short Order. Jun 9, 2014
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
If you are a real retard like me- try it with snow at the base in early spring. This way you can rocket off into the trees when you fall off. Sep 30, 2009
Gabe13 Flanders
Eaton Center, New Hampshire
 
Gabe13 Flanders   Eaton Center, New Hampshire
 
I tried Cash Flow yesterday John, and was saved from disaster by a heap of leaves and duff (and my cat-like reflexes). The 5.10 slab moves are 15 or so feet off the ground. For the less retarded I recommend placing the first nut under the roof, then downclimbing and firing the direct start. Jun 18, 2009
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Try the direct start 5.10 no gear but really not to bad. It can also be top roped after the initial arch.

john Jun 12, 2008