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Routes in 7. The Slabs

Beginners Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Beginners Easy Variation T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Beginners Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Black Jade T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Booklet, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cormier-Magness Indirect, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cormier-Magness Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Horse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dike Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fingertip Trip T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Girdle Traverse of Whitehorse Ledge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 PG13
Interloper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Man O War T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Miner-Joseph-King Dike (aka Dike route left start), The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ninth Wave, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pathfinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sea of Holes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slabs Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sliding Board T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Slipshod T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Buttress of Wankers Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Stop if you Dare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Tidal Wave T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Waiting for Comeau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wave Bye Bye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Wave Length T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wedge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Wilderness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
White Zone, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Ed Webster and Alain Comeau 1985
Page Views: 9,629 total, 75/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 31, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A really nice route that involves lots of friction and a steep bulge near the top to remind you how to use your hands.... Put up by Ed Webster and Alain Comeau, 2 guys with eyes for good routes this one is a must do if you love friction....
A nice choice if the more popular routes are packed; however, that makes this popular on a busy day, too....

Pitch 1: (5.2) Motor up the slab for 160 ft. to a 2 bolt anchor on a stance....

Pitch 2: Continue straight up clipping a fixed pin and passing to the right of the first arch.... Belay at a 2 bolt ring anchor at the right edge of the second arch....

Pitch 3: (5.5) Smear up and left to a wide white streak and up the streak left of the head wall to a 2 bolt anchor....

Pitch 4: (5.7 or 5.8+) Move up on laybacks and left.... Continue up the slab on the left side of the white streak to the base of a shallow, left-facing corner. Clip a pin and move up and right to a bolt.... The climbing is steeper here for a few moves.... The slab above the bolt can be heady, keep it together to the overlap where you get good gear before mantling on to a mossy slab with a thin streak of clean rock just enough to help you get to the big tree with slings on it at the left side of a large tree ledge....

The 5.8 option to pitch 4 goes over the bulge on your left after the 5.7 crux... After passing the bolt head up and left and find your tricky way over the bulge and head up the slab to an obvious anchor...

Rap down...4 two rope raps....

Location

On the left side of the slabs.... Start below twin, right-arching corner overlaps and a prominent white streak....

4 double rope raps from the tree....

Protection

Standard rack plus tri-cams.... Two ropes for rapping off....
Christopher Woodall
Somerville, MA
 
Christopher Woodall   Somerville, MA
 
Me and my partner got stung by some nasty wasps on the 4th pitch who were hanging out in the left facing corner to the left of the 3rd belay. Watch out for them if you plan on doing this route. I got stung twice and my partner once. Jul 31, 2016
I wouldn't climb anywhere without my Tricams! Especially slab.

This route was fun. The 5.7 crux is way sweet. Then the 5.8 variation was bomber. Pretty tough on lead. Jul 22, 2014
chinos
 
chinos  
 
another good option to get to the white zone as well Sep 22, 2013
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
From the tree anchor at the top, my partner and I were able to make it to the ground in three, two rope (60m) raps. We went from the tree to the bolted belay directly below, probably about 120', then down and climber's left to the tree belay, a full 60m rap, then one more to the ground with a little rope to spare at the bottom. As always, knot the rope!

The middle tree belay is part the Stadtmuller Griffin Route, and could probably use a new sling/cord, but was still safe to rap on. Aug 25, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.7
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.7
Great route, I would say however that the thin strip between the moss just before the tree is very overgrown and sketchy, it might be time for a quick brushing... Jul 15, 2013
Gabe13 Flanders
Eaton Center, New Hampshire
Gabe13 Flanders   Eaton Center, New Hampshire
There is another nice variation (technically part of Pathfinder, but the only part worth doing i.m.o.): From the pitch 4 anchor, approach the overlap, aiming for an old-ish pin. Step up, clip a bolt over the lip, and crank one 5.9 move onto the slab. Teeter left, throw a medium tricam in a pocket, and you're golden to the rap anchor.

You may continue on a short 5.7 pitch to the final, huge overlap. Anyone ever actually done "Corbett's Crack"? It sure looks harder than 5.8... Sep 11, 2010
Make sure to bring Tri-cams! On the second and third pitch, there are pockets which are too narrow for most cams. Tri-cams (especially the pink one) will help a lot Feb 25, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i did the variation and im gonna add it to the description... Nov 4, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I think the variation Casey talks about is well worth doing. If I remember correctly, the moves are cool and pretty well protected. Plus you get to go to a bolted belay instead of a tree belay. Nov 14, 2007
lee, have you ever had the chance to do the 8+/9- variation?
from the third pitch anchor move left after the flake and move up
under the overlap left of the 5.7. clip a bolt on the edge of the
overlap and make an awkward matle/rockover move. climb up and right to a two bolt anchor even with the last pitch's tree anchor...... Sep 17, 2007