Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches
FA: Ed Webster and Alain Comeau 1985
Page Views: 12,121 total · 75/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 31, 2007 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

A really nice route that involves lots of friction and a steep bulge near the top to remind you how to use your hands.... Put up by Ed Webster and Alain Comeau, 2 guys with eyes for good routes this one is a must do if you love friction....
A nice choice if the more popular routes are packed; however, that makes this popular on a busy day, too....

Pitch 1: (5.2) Motor up the slab for 160 ft. to a 2 bolt anchor on a stance....

Pitch 2: Continue straight up clipping a fixed pin and passing to the right of the first arch.... Belay at a 2 bolt ring anchor at the right edge of the second arch....

Pitch 3: (5.5) Smear up and left to a wide white streak and up the streak left of the head wall to a 2 bolt anchor....

Pitch 4: (5.7 or 5.8+) Move up on laybacks and left.... Continue up the slab on the left side of the white streak to the base of a shallow, left-facing corner. Clip a pin and move up and right to a bolt.... The climbing is steeper here for a few moves.... The slab above the bolt can be heady, keep it together to the overlap where you get good gear before mantling on to a mossy slab with a thin streak of clean rock just enough to help you get to the big tree with slings on it at the left side of a large tree ledge....

The 5.8 option to pitch 4 goes over the bulge on your left after the 5.7 crux... After passing the bolt head up and left and find your tricky way over the bulge and head up the slab to an obvious anchor...

Rap down...4 two rope raps....

Location

On the left side of the slabs.... Start below twin, right-arching corner overlaps and a prominent white streak....

4 double rope raps from the tree....

Protection

Standard rack plus tri-cams.... Two ropes for rapping off....

Photos