Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Ed Webster and Alain Comeau 1985
Page Views: 10,457 total · 74/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 31, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


58 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A really nice route that involves lots of friction and a steep bulge near the top to remind you how to use your hands.... Put up by Ed Webster and Alain Comeau, 2 guys with eyes for good routes this one is a must do if you love friction....
A nice choice if the more popular routes are packed; however, that makes this popular on a busy day, too....

Pitch 1: (5.2) Motor up the slab for 160 ft. to a 2 bolt anchor on a stance....

Pitch 2: Continue straight up clipping a fixed pin and passing to the right of the first arch.... Belay at a 2 bolt ring anchor at the right edge of the second arch....

Pitch 3: (5.5) Smear up and left to a wide white streak and up the streak left of the head wall to a 2 bolt anchor....

Pitch 4: (5.7 or 5.8+) Move up on laybacks and left.... Continue up the slab on the left side of the white streak to the base of a shallow, left-facing corner. Clip a pin and move up and right to a bolt.... The climbing is steeper here for a few moves.... The slab above the bolt can be heady, keep it together to the overlap where you get good gear before mantling on to a mossy slab with a thin streak of clean rock just enough to help you get to the big tree with slings on it at the left side of a large tree ledge....

The 5.8 option to pitch 4 goes over the bulge on your left after the 5.7 crux... After passing the bolt head up and left and find your tricky way over the bulge and head up the slab to an obvious anchor...

Rap down...4 two rope raps....

Location

On the left side of the slabs.... Start below twin, right-arching corner overlaps and a prominent white streak....

4 double rope raps from the tree....

Protection

Standard rack plus tri-cams.... Two ropes for rapping off....
lee, have you ever had the chance to do the 8+/9- variation?
from the third pitch anchor move left after the flake and move up
under the overlap left of the 5.7. clip a bolt on the edge of the
overlap and make an awkward matle/rockover move. climb up and right to a two bolt anchor even with the last pitch's tree anchor...... Sep 17, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I think the variation Casey talks about is well worth doing. If I remember correctly, the moves are cool and pretty well protected. Plus you get to go to a bolted belay instead of a tree belay. Nov 14, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.7
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.7
i did the variation and im gonna add it to the description... Nov 4, 2009
AtiMonkey91 Lefland
New Haven, CT
AtiMonkey91 Lefland   New Haven, CT
Make sure to bring Tri-cams! On the second and third pitch, there are pockets which are too narrow for most cams. Tri-cams (especially the pink one) will help a lot Feb 25, 2010
Gabe13 Flanders
Eaton Center, New Hampshire
Gabe13 Flanders   Eaton Center, New Hampshire
There is another nice variation (technically part of Pathfinder, but the only part worth doing i.m.o.): From the pitch 4 anchor, approach the overlap, aiming for an old-ish pin. Step up, clip a bolt over the lip, and crank one 5.9 move onto the slab. Teeter left, throw a medium tricam in a pocket, and you're golden to the rap anchor.

You may continue on a short 5.7 pitch to the final, huge overlap. Anyone ever actually done "Corbett's Crack"? It sure looks harder than 5.8... Sep 11, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.7
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.7
Great route, I would say however that the thin strip between the moss just before the tree is very overgrown and sketchy, it might be time for a quick brushing... Jul 15, 2013
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
From the tree anchor at the top, my partner and I were able to make it to the ground in three, two rope (60m) raps. We went from the tree to the bolted belay directly below, probably about 120', then down and climber's left to the tree belay, a full 60m rap, then one more to the ground with a little rope to spare at the bottom. As always, knot the rope!

The middle tree belay is part the Stadtmuller Griffin Route, and could probably use a new sling/cord, but was still safe to rap on. Aug 25, 2013
chinos
 
chinos  
 
another good option to get to the white zone as well Sep 22, 2013
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
I wouldn't climb anywhere without my Tricams! Especially slab.

This route was fun. The 5.7 crux is way sweet. Then the 5.8 variation was bomber. Pretty tough on lead. Jul 22, 2014
Chris W
Somerville, MA
 
Chris W   Somerville, MA
 
Me and my partner got stung by some nasty wasps on the 4th pitch who were hanging out in the left facing corner to the left of the 3rd belay. Watch out for them if you plan on doing this route. I got stung twice and my partner once. Jul 31, 2016
Northeast Alpine Start
Conway, New Hampshire
Northeast Alpine Start   Conway, New Hampshire
5/21/18, climbed today we discovered the rap tree at the top of the traditional 5.7 finish is completely uprooted and on its side along with all the turf on that ledge. It looks relatively stable in its resting position on the cliff but is no longer an option for descending. If you climb the 4th pitch you will need to do the 5.8 variation to the bolted anchor. May 21, 2018