Type: Trad, 380 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FRA: Magness and McCoy, 6/15
Page Views: 1,891 total · 38/month
Shared By: chris magness on Jun 15, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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A two pitch variation to The Cormier-Magness.

Climb CM's first five pitches. After the Northwest Passage, walk climber's right 20' and reset the belay in a low horizontal.

Pitch 1, Gritty McDuff, 5.7
Step up and right from the belay and follow a slab straight up passing two bolts before joining the Low Beer Light pitch (approx 50'). The climbing eases as you approach the no-fall zone. A little spicy toward the top of the slab on mellow terrain. 180'

Pitch 2, The Chaser, 5.10
From Low Beer Light's tree, step down a few feet and right. Straight up again over an obvious bulge. Pass two bolts before joining the Platinum Slab (approx 30'). A smidge stiffer than Interloper's first pitch. 190'

Rock quality on both pitches is superb as is the climbing. I didn't scrub at all; traffic will clean things up. If the variations were longer and more independent, the star quality would be higher.

As per usual: free and on lead.

A long draw on the first bolt of each pitch should help with drag.


draws and a .4/.5 for a horizontal entering the first pitch (extend with 4' sling)