Type: Trad, 380 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FRA: Magness and McCoy, 6/15
Page Views: 1,691 total · 40/month
Shared By: chris magness on Jun 15, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

A two pitch variation to The Cormier-Magness.

Climb CM's first five pitches. After the Northwest Passage, walk climber's right 20' and reset the belay in a low horizontal.

Pitch 1, Gritty McDuff, 5.7
Step up and right from the belay and follow a slab straight up passing two bolts before joining the Low Beer Light pitch (approx 50'). The climbing eases as you approach the no-fall zone. A little spicy toward the top of the slab on mellow terrain. 180'

Pitch 2, The Chaser, 5.10
From Low Beer Light's tree, step down a few feet and right. Straight up again over an obvious bulge. Pass two bolts before joining the Platinum Slab (approx 30'). A smidge stiffer than Interloper's first pitch. 190'

Rock quality on both pitches is superb as is the climbing. I didn't scrub at all; traffic will clean things up. If the variations were longer and more independent, the star quality would be higher.

As per usual: free and on lead.

A long draw on the first bolt of each pitch should help with drag.

Protection

draws and a .4/.5 for a horizontal entering the first pitch (extend with 4' sling)

Photos

john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Nice job mags...maybe some other stuff still on the slabs ???? Jun 16, 2015
chris magness
  5.10
chris magness  
  5.10
Thanks man! I've been eyeing these pitches for awhile. Short but really good.

The right side is pretty well tapped now; I know of a little more potential... and not all slabby stuff! Jun 16, 2015
xcrag-corex
The Mighty Granite State
xcrag-corex   The Mighty Granite State
So I'm gathering the second pitch goes up the steep swell... The few times I climbed the original line I looked over at it and thought that that would be fun... Can't wait to give it a go ! Jun 21, 2015
chris magness
  5.10
chris magness  
  5.10
Yep, second pitch is the steep swell. I wanted it to go with one bolt, but it turned out to be a tad bit strenuous.. I had to come back down for my rock shoes after drilling the second bolt! Jun 23, 2015
Jorden Kass
Belmont, MA
Jorden Kass   Belmont, MA
There is what appears to be a route to the left of the buttress of "the open book". It is covered with moss, but I was able to lead it (on accident) to the headwall before having to retreat while trying to do Cormier-Magness. The first section is very doable, but it quickly gets harder. Jul 20, 2015
caesar.salad
earth
caesar.salad   earth
Almost did the same thing today, Jordan. Instead, I went the correct way (right) and found it to be covered in wet, slippery moss. I am bringing a scrub brush next time and clearing a path. Sep 16, 2015
chris magness
  5.10
chris magness  
  5.10
I've been informed from several reliable sources that the Gritty McDuff pitch isn't 5.6. Hard to tell sometimes.. Modified the grade (it'll never get 5.8!!!). Nov 15, 2015
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
F'm downgrade it to 5.5+ Nov 15, 2015
chris magness
  5.10
chris magness  
  5.10
I should! Felt easy to me the first go, and I was bolting in approach shoes. Perhaps my friends are just sallies? Nov 16, 2015
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.10
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.10
Not too sure of the numerical grade for P1 (done it twice, following both times, the rock is real "sticky") but with the big ledge below there's no question that you just plain don't want to "blow it" approaching the second bolt. Sep 3, 2017