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Routes in 7. The Slabs

Beginners Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Beginners Easy Variation T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Beginners Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Black Jade T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Booklet, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cormier-Magness Indirect, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cormier-Magness Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Horse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dike Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fingertip Trip T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Girdle Traverse of Whitehorse Ledge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 PG13
Interloper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Man O War T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Miner-Joseph-King Dike (aka Dike route left start), The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ninth Wave, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pathfinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sea of Holes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slabs Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sliding Board T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Slipshod T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Buttress of Wankers Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Stop if you Dare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Tidal Wave T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Waiting for Comeau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wave Bye Bye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Wave Length T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wedge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Wilderness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
White Zone, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 2 pitches
FA: larry miner, david joseph, harry king 9/5/1955
Page Views: 150 total · 5/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 13, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Another run-out moderate. I guess there is no end to them on this cliff haha. This one is dirty, loose and possibly scary in parts so do the other ones first. That said, the crux run out dike was clean and enjoyable.

We found the experience to be a bit different than the description in our book. So I will give my account and if anyone else has info, please share.

Pitch 1: Easy 5th class. Start up the dike/pockets that begin the dike route and other climbs on the left side of the slabs from the ground. At a large sloping ledge move left to a 2 bolt anchor. There are many options of starts and many will be happy to scramble this section ropeless.
Pitch 2: Follow the fun, obvious dike with minimal protection until the angle lowers and you switch to straight friction climbing past some bushes and such. when you do find cracks be sure they are solid as there is a lot of loose and questionable rock around. Not trusting any of the rock I continued all the way to a large tree with slings in a 200ft rope stretching pitch. (There was mention of a ledge to belay from lower down but we didn't find one. Perhaps it has fallen off haha.)
Pitch 3: Climb up to the left following a crack that leads to some broken rock and scramble back right to the ledge shared by the dike route. Continue up the Dike route or rap off from the tree anchors.

Location

On the left side of the slabs look for the two dikes. This is the left/steeper one.

Protection

Regular rack.
Sparse gear on the crux pitch. I used a couple of very questionable small cams then at about 100ft I got decent pro in a horizontal.

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