Avg: 3.5 from 163 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 9 pitches|
|FA:||W. Crowther and B Gilmore 1959/1960|
|Page Views:||20,252 total · 113/month|
|Shared By:||Lee Hansche on Jan 18, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
A truly classic slab climb, loved, respected and feared.A great place to hone your slab climbing skills.Sees many ascents and some epics on a nice weekend so try to avoid the crowds and make sure you are ready for the adventure.
Start from the launch pad.
Pitch one (5.2): Moves up toward the arch of standard route breaking left to a two ringbolt anchor, even with the bottom of the arch.
Pitch two (5.7): Move right and up past two bolts along a steep ramp. Belay on small gear in a crack with an old pin, or traverse left to a two bolt anchor on Interloper.
Pitch three (5.5): The mental crux for most.
Straight up and a little right climbing past 1 bolt on this 100ft pitch to a 2 bolt anchor at some large solution pockets. The climbing is moderate but feels harder due to the smooth rock and long runout.
P 2 and P3 can be combined with a 70m rope.
Pitch 4 (5.5): move right to a pretty left facing corner with a nice crack, up this to gain a dike and shortly after, a comfortable stance at a slanting corner. Belay from here with gear, lower is better. (see photo "P4 Belay", look for and old, but solid, piton on the left easily backed up with medium cams #0.75 / 1.0 )
Pitch 5 (5.6): A couple ways to do this one. You can move up and right across smooth slab over a tiny overlap (small wires) to a slippery dike; or stay left of the dike in a good grove then traversing right to the last few feet of the dike. Either way you do it you are heading for a slightly flaring corner (once was a small tree, now #2 cam) then to the right over a slab to a two bolt anchor below the dike that splits the steep headwall. The direct dike is a bit spooky but more fun in my opinion where as the left option is better protected, easier, but harder to see the line.
Pitch 6 (5.5): Steep but moderate climbing gets you up the 20ft headwall and on to the truly moderate climbing.. Up the easy dike to a good stance. belay from gear.
Pitch 7 (5.3): Up dikes and left over a slab to a tree belay.
Pitches 8 and 9 (5.1 ish): I normally simulclimb them clipping the one bolt between the tree and the summit.Follow the dike or choose your own adventure.Belay from trees above, or stop to belay from 1 bolt at the halfway mark.
From the top turn right (north) and follow a trail down... Many parties rap down with 2 ropes after doing the harder pitches to avoid the hike....
Some pitches are run out giving it the R rating.... The physical crux is well protected but there is some spooky climbing on most pitches for those not comfortable running it out on 5.5 and under....