Horse Tranquilizer

An excellent adventure which sneaks its way through the gut of Whitehorse’s least traveled terrain. Although winding, it packs in fun features and memorable pitches which culminate in a very worthwhile new full length route. As an ode to the Cormier Magness we have named every pitch for your enjoyment.

1: The White Stallion {5.3R}

A approach pitch. Follow scoops right up the slab angling for a left facing flake. Pass the flake cresting onto lower angle terrain. Walk up the slab aiming for the white arete which forms the left side of the corner above the Miner-Joseph-King ledge. Follow the arete as it steepens to reach a nice belay ledge with a two bolt anchor. 

2: The Horse Tranquilizer {5.9}

A incredible slice of hard slab which is sporting but safe. Step right from the anchor then smear straight up past three bolts to reach a stance in solution pockets below the obvious overlap. Plug some gear then pull over the overlap’s right side and pad up easier ground past a bolt to reach a two bolt anchor on a ledge.

3: Base Traverse {5.6}

Walk  straight left across a long angling flake from the anchor aiming for a lone bolt at the features end. Smear around a bulge into a scoop then walk left to a line of two bolts. Follow these along interesting micro features to reach the tree ledge and a bolted anchor. 

4: Pony Keg Connector {5.5}

Pull on to the aesthetic white slab above following the path of least resistance to reach a fixed pin, continue up then step left into a squat right facing corner with a bolt. Pull over the corner on pocket jugs then follow flakes straight up past a bolt until you can cut left to reach a chest high overlap at a vertical seam. Clip a fixed pin over the lip and exit over, walk up a ledge (passing an intermediate rappel station) to another corner before reaching a tree anchor on a large ledge. (Climbing the short buttress left of the last corner below the tree ledge is fun and avoids wet rock)

Walk left across the ledge to a two bolt anchor  at the base of a obvious dihedral.

5: Clysdale Cracks {5.7} 

Climb the dihedral exiting onto the slab then follow a phenomenal zig zagging crack system as it slowly widens to its end. Leave the crack passing three bolts straight up a pleasant slab to a short headwall with a right angling crack/seam. Pull over the headwall (crux) to reach a ledge with a two bolt anchor. This is an excellent but long pitch, an optional gear anchor can be built at a pedestal where the crack zags from left to right with hand sized cams. 

6: SOG Traverse {5.3}

From the anchor walk right across a ledge through the trees to reach the next slab. Continue right until you reach a left facing flake below two bolts. Go up until you can step right onto an odd foot path, walk this to reach a tree belay at a ledge. 

7: Flyboy {5.7}

From the tree anchor walk across the slab right then punch straight up the clean streak passing two bolts to reach the base of the final head wall at a stance left of a tree. Surmount the headwall through numerous overlaps sneaking in gear while trending right to reach a bolt. Step right from the bolt onto a ledge then punch it straight up the slab passing three more bolts to reach the summit. Build an anchor in a vertical flake with finger sized pieces. 

A note: This route while climbing almost entirely  new terrain does cross multiple pre existing routes such as crazy horse, man o war, the essentially defunct mistaken identity and bubble of enlightenment. Much care was given to placing bolts as to negate any impact on these lines. In regard to the  lower slabs Paul Boissonneault (FA party of Man O war) was contacted prior to any work being done to keep bolts from intruding. The crux pitches were also bolted free and on lead. 

The route starts from a ledge just right of where the trail breaks left traversing towards the echo roof below Waiting For Comeau on the far left side of the slabs. Look for A series of left facing flakes on a bulge down and left of the large ledge which Dark Horse & M-J-K-D start from.

Rack from .2-3 with doubles in .4-1 and tricams 

A #4 is helpful if not comfortable on low angle cracks for pitch 5