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Routes in 7. The Slabs

Beginners Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Beginners Easy Variation T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Beginners Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Black Jade T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Booklet, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cormier-Magness Indirect, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cormier-Magness Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Horse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dike Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fingertip Trip T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Girdle Traverse of Whitehorse Ledge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 PG13
Interloper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Man O War T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Miner-Joseph-King Dike (aka Dike route left start), The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Ninth Wave, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pathfinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sea of Holes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slabs Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sliding Board T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Slipshod T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Buttress of Wankers Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Stop if you Dare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Tidal Wave T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Waiting for Comeau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wave Bye Bye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Wave Length T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wedge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Wilderness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
White Zone, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 1080 ft, 10 pitches
FA: Kurt Winkler, James Roshind and Leon Fairbanks 9.29.1990
Page Views: 621 total · 13/month
Shared By: Tristan Baldwin on Jun 23, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

One of the longer (if not the longest) route on the slabs.

Pitch 1. Start from the lowest point on the right side of the slab and head up low fifth class slab to a very interesting thread between two large solution pockets 70'(5.3)

Pitch 2. Continue up to the obvious flake about 50 left of the belay tree on Beginner route 110'(5.2) This pitch is easily linked with pitch one and rope drag isn't a problem, because the thread is the only pro on this route. Falling from the belay could result in a 180' tumbling grounder, but the terrain is very easy to this point.

Pitch 3. This is the money pitch of the route. Go directly up on an obvious white streak (more obvious from the parking lot) and place a piece right before the bulge of Wave Bye Bye and left of beginner route. Getting over this bulge is the crux of the route and you will be about 100' past your last piece at that point. Continue up increasingly featured friction moves to a large solution pocket on your right (takes 3.5 cam) and a smaller solution pocket on your left (takes mid-sized tricam). These are both bomber albeit difficult to equalize given they are about 10' apart. 165' (5.7X)

Pitch 4. Continue up staying left of Beginner route 90' (5.2)

Pitch 5. Continue up the obvious white streak. 135' (5.7)

Pitch 6. Continue up the white streak to the smile belay on Beginner's Route 80' (5.4)

Pitch 7. Head up and left from the belay towards Standard Route

Pitches 8+ Follow Standard Route or Beginner's to the top (Easy 5th)

Location

Start at the absolute toe of the slabs on the left side. The route generally follows the bright white blankness between Beginner's and Slabs Direct. A bit contrived as you intentionally avoid the features of Beginner's and the anchors on Wave Bye Bye en-route.

Protection

Standard Whitehorse rack ensuring a Medium Tricam and 3.5 Camalot (or modern #4). This is a very serious route and as such does not see as much traffic as its neighbors, noted by the somewhat friable rock and higher than average lichen accumulation. A fall from high on the 3rd pitch would result in a 200+ foot tumble. You wouldn't hit the ground, but you might wish you had! As with all Whitehorse slab routes, the pitches are all at least PG-13 even if not noted.

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