Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

White Wilderness

5.7 X, Trad, 1080 ft, 10 pitches,  Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: Kurt Winkler, James Roshind and Leon Fairbanks 9.29.1990
New Hampshire > Whitehorse Ledge > 7. The Slabs


One of the longer (if not the longest) route on the slabs.

Pitch 1. Start from the lowest point on the right side of the slab and head up low fifth class slab to a very interesting thread between two large solution pockets 70'(5.3)

Pitch 2. Continue up to the obvious flake about 50 left of the belay tree on Beginner route 110'(5.2) This pitch is easily linked with pitch one and rope drag isn't a problem, because the thread is the only pro on this route. Falling from the belay could result in a 180' tumbling grounder, but the terrain is very easy to this point.

Pitch 3. This is the money pitch of the route. Go directly up on an obvious white streak (more obvious from the parking lot) and place a piece right before the bulge of Wave Bye Bye and left of beginner route. Getting over this bulge is the crux of the route and you will be about 100' past your last piece at that point. Continue up increasingly featured friction moves to a large solution pocket on your right (takes 3.5 cam) and a smaller solution pocket on your left (takes mid-sized tricam). These are both bomber albeit difficult to equalize given they are about 10' apart. 165' (5.7X)

Pitch 4. Continue up staying left of Beginner route 90' (5.2)

Pitch 5. Continue up the obvious white streak. 135' (5.7)

Pitch 6. Continue up the white streak to the smile belay on Beginner's Route 80' (5.4)

Pitch 7. Head up and left from the belay towards Standard Route

Pitches 8+ Follow Standard Route or Beginner's to the top (Easy 5th)


Start at the absolute toe of the slabs on the left side. The route generally follows the bright white blankness between Beginner's and Slabs Direct. A bit contrived as you intentionally avoid the features of Beginner's and the anchors on Wave Bye Bye en-route.


Standard Whitehorse rack ensuring a Medium Tricam and 3.5 Camalot (or modern #4). This is a very serious route and as such does not see as much traffic as its neighbors, noted by the somewhat friable rock and higher than average lichen accumulation. A fall from high on the 3rd pitch would result in a 200+ foot tumble. You wouldn't hit the ground, but you might wish you had! As with all Whitehorse slab routes, the pitches are all at least PG-13 even if not noted.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

White Wilderness. Bomber #2 Camalot in a solution pocket about 30' below me. Heady lead for a .7
[Hide Photo] White Wilderness. Bomber #2 Camalot in a solution pocket about 30' below me. Heady lead for a .7