Type: Trad, Sport, 270 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 884 total · 9/month
Shared By: Gabe13 Flanders on Sep 7, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Along with the Booklet, Ninth Wave and Black Jade, here's another cool, hard-ish slab route that is virtually guaranteed to be free, any Saturday of the summer.

Simulclimb to the base of the standard arch. Climb easily up the arch until it is possible to step up and left onto the face (5.8). Move up to a bolt then make a long runout to an overlap. Protect, balance right, grab a flake and you're at the anchors.

Pitch two follows the gray/green streak up to a bolt in a slight groove (10b) before gaining an easy layback flake. Watch out when clipping bolt 1 from a very balancy stance. After another undercling flake and a bolt, more sustained slabbing can be protected by traversing left into Sliding Board every so often.

Location

Starts at the base of the Standard Route arch.

Protection

Protects well with a normal rack. Some mandatory slab runouts and a dicy clip on p. 2.

Photos

Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
The protection info is just reassuring and scary enough to be locally hysterical...nice. Apr 27, 2018