Great climbing, great view.

All Locations > New Hampshire > Whitehorse Ledge > 7. The Slabs > Cormier-Magness Route (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b)

Great climbing, great view.

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The Wheat Thin Arete. Dave Lottman photo.

Scramble up to a nice tree for the first belay station.

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Duncan O'Boyle

Nov 15, 2020

“Great climbing, great view.”

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Cormier-Magness - whole route

Start of pitch 5.

A little beta on where to go for P4.

New anchors after pitch 6 and 7.

Classic Whitehorse tricam placement.

RW enjoys the fabulous P2 ("Wheat Thin Pitch" ?) Put this pitch at any climbing area in the world and it would get 3-4 stars. At J-Tree, folk would start lining up at 5am and by 9am there would be 6 parties (not 6 climbers!) waiting in line.

history lesson

Off the Anchor P4 "Open Book"

Platinum Slab

Beautiful route

Dorian following high Low Beer Light pitch.

Low Beer Light Pitch

Pitch 3

Wheat Thin Arete

Belay Tom up the Wheat Thin Arete

John Garlough on the Open Book pitch

Look, Ma, no hands!—nearing the top of P7

Looking down at the Cajun Washboard pitch, 5.6

Upper 3 pitch's as seen from the Guides Wall

The Wheat Thin Arete. Dave Lottman photo.

Great climbing, great view.

Scramble up to a nice tree for the first belay station.

For our Marines and Sailors in Quarantine ! OH RAH

The Cajun Washboard. Dave Lottman photo.

The Platinum Slab

The hand drawn topo. I was only able to find a really crappy picture of the original topo on NE alpine start. My girlfriend traced over it to make it readable. The cajun washboard pitch became "the cajun woman bond", but otherwise everything looks good.

Open Book Pitch Exit Cracks

View of Cormier-Magness Platinum Slab pitch from Beginners Easy Variation (maybe). There's some nice slab at the right of Cormier-Magness.

Looking down P4 just before starting up the final flake/handcrack.

The licheny P4 traverse.

Nuno at the belay after leading pitch 3 - The Cajun Washboard - 6/2022

The original topo

Leading pitch 2 - The Wheat Thin Arete. Photo by N. Santos - 6/2022

A view of the top of the Open Book pitch, merging into the Northwest Passage pitch, was taken from Beginner's Easy. You can see a steep flake beyond the tree with the tat (orange tat here). I think this is the correct flake to climb. There's also a chunky flake beside a tree, about 10 feet further back, which is much easier if you have any doubts.