Start of pitch 5.

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All Locations > New Hampshire > Whitehorse Ledge > 7. The Slabs > Cormier-Magness Route (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b)

Start of pitch 5.

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Cormier-Magness - whole route

A little beta on where to go for P4.

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4.5 from 6 votes

Ron Birk

May 26, 2019

“Start of pitch 5.”

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Cormier-Magness - whole route

Start of pitch 5.

A little beta on where to go for P4.

RW enjoys the fabulous P2 ("Wheat Thin Pitch" ?) Put this pitch at any climbing area in the world and it would get 3-4 stars. At J-Tree, folk would start lining up at 5am and by 9am there would be 6 parties (not 6 climbers!) waiting in line.

Classic Whitehorse tricam placement.

Off the Anchor P4 "Open Book"

Platinum Slab

Beautiful route

Low Beer Light Pitch

history lesson

Tom (16 yrs old) on lead up the Platinum Slab

Pitch 3

Belay Tom up the Wheat Thin Arete

Dorian following high Low Beer Light pitch.

John Garlough on the Open Book pitch

Wheat Thin Arete

Looking down at the Cajun Washboard pitch, 5.6

Look, Ma, no hands!—nearing the top of P7

Tom (16 yrs old) on lead up the Top Out pitch

Upper 3 pitch's as seen from the Guides Wall

The licheny P4 traverse.

The hand drawn topo. I was only able to find a really crappy picture of the original topo on NE alpine start. My girlfriend traced over it to make it readable. The cajun washboard pitch became "the cajun woman bond", but otherwise everything looks good.

The original topo

View of Cormier-Magness Platinum Slab pitch from Beginners Easy Variation (maybe). There's some nice slab at the right of Cormier-Magness.

The Wheat Thin Arete. Dave Lottman photo.

The Cajun Washboard. Dave Lottman photo.

The Platinum Slab

Looking down P4 just before starting up the final flake/handcrack.

A view of the top of the Open Book pitch, merging into the Northwest Passage pitch, was taken from Beginner's Easy. You can see a steep flake beyond the tree with the tat (orange tat here). I think this is the correct flake to climb. There's also a chunky flake beside a tree, about 10 feet further back, which is much easier if you have any doubts.

Open Book Pitch Exit Cracks

For our Marines and Sailors in Quarantine ! OH RAH

Belay Sean up the Low Beer Light Pitch