Start of pitch 5.

All Locations > New Hampshire > Whitehorse Ledge > 7. The Slabs > Cormier-Magness Route (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b)

Start of pitch 5.

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Cormier-Magness - whole route

A little beta on where to go for P4.

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4.6 from 7 votes

Ron Birk

May 26, 2019

“Start of pitch 5.”

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Cormier-Magness - whole route

Start of pitch 5.

A little beta on where to go for P4.

Classic Whitehorse tricam placement.

RW enjoys the fabulous P2 ("Wheat Thin Pitch" ?) Put this pitch at any climbing area in the world and it would get 3-4 stars. At J-Tree, folk would start lining up at 5am and by 9am there would be 6 parties (not 6 climbers!) waiting in line.

history lesson

Off the Anchor P4 "Open Book"

Platinum Slab

Beautiful route

Dorian following high Low Beer Light pitch.

Low Beer Light Pitch

Tom (16 yrs old) on lead up the Platinum Slab

Pitch 3

Wheat Thin Arete

Belay Tom up the Wheat Thin Arete

John Garlough on the Open Book pitch

Look, Ma, no hands!—nearing the top of P7

Looking down at the Cajun Washboard pitch, 5.6

Tom (16 yrs old) on lead up the Top Out pitch

Upper 3 pitch's as seen from the Guides Wall

For our Marines and Sailors in Quarantine ! OH RAH

The Wheat Thin Arete. Dave Lottman photo.

The Cajun Washboard. Dave Lottman photo.

The original topo

The hand drawn topo. I was only able to find a really crappy picture of the original topo on NE alpine start. My girlfriend traced over it to make it readable. The cajun washboard pitch became "the cajun woman bond", but otherwise everything looks good.

The Platinum Slab

Open Book Pitch Exit Cracks

Looking down P4 just before starting up the final flake/handcrack.

The licheny P4 traverse.

A view of the top of the Open Book pitch, merging into the Northwest Passage pitch, was taken from Beginner's Easy. You can see a steep flake beyond the tree with the tat (orange tat here). I think this is the correct flake to climb. There's also a chunky flake beside a tree, about 10 feet further back, which is much easier if you have any doubts.

Scramble up to a nice tree for the first belay station.

View of Cormier-Magness Platinum Slab pitch from Beginners Easy Variation (maybe). There's some nice slab at the right of Cormier-Magness.

Great climbing, great view.

Belay Sean up the Low Beer Light Pitch