Start of pitch 5.

All Locations > New Hampshire > Whitehorse Ledge > 7. The Slabs > Cormier-Magness Route (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b)

Start of pitch 5.

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John Garlough on the Open Book pitch

A little beta on where to go for P4.

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4.7 from 3 votes

Ron Birk

May 26, 2019

“Start of pitch 5.”

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Start of pitch 5.

A little beta on where to go for P4.

RW enjoys the fabulous P2 ("Wheat Thin Pitch" ?) Put this pitch at any climbing area in the world and it would get 3-4 stars. At J-Tree, folk would start lining up at 5am and by 9am there would be 6 parties (not 6 climbers!) waiting in line.

history lesson

Pitch 3

Tom (16 yrs old) on lead up the Platinum Slab

Low Beer Light Pitch

Wheat Thin Arete

Looking down at the Cajun Washboard pitch, 5.6

Tom (16 yrs old) on lead up the Top Out pitch

Upper 3 pitch's as seen from the Guides Wall

The Wheat Thin Arete. Dave Lottman photo.

The Cajun Washboard. Dave Lottman photo.

Belay Sean up the Low Beer Light Pitch

Belay Tom up the Wheat Thin Arete

Off the Anchor P4 "Open Book"

The Platinum Slab

Look, Ma, no hands!—nearing the top of P7

Platinum Slab

Open Book Pitch Exit Cracks

The licheny P4 traverse.

Looking down P4 just before starting up the final flake/handcrack.

A view of the top of the Open Book pitch, merging into the Northwest Passage pitch, was taken from Beginner's Easy. You can see a steep flake beyond the tree with the tat (orange tat here). I think this is the correct flake to climb. There's also a chunky flake beside a tree, about 10 feet further back, which is much easier if you have any doubts.

Classic Whitehorse tricam placement.

John Garlough on the Open Book pitch