New anchors after pitch 6 and 7.

All Locations > New Hampshire > Whitehorse Ledge > 07. The Slabs > Cormier-Magness Route (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b)

New anchors after pitch 6 and 7.

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Start of pitch 5.

A little beta on where to go for P4.

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5.0 from 6 votes

Ron Birk

Oct 10, 2021

“New anchors after pitch 6 and 7.”

1 Comment

Nearby Photos

Cormier-Magness - whole route. NOTE- Once you do the traverse on P4 it is difficult to get back to the route if rapping. You are pretty much committed to topping out or rapping through the trees of "Beginner's Easy".

Start of pitch 5.

New anchors after pitch 6 and 7.

A little beta on where to go for P4.

Classic Whitehorse tricam placement.

RW enjoys the fabulous P2 ("Wheat Thin Pitch" ?) Put this pitch at any climbing area in the world and it would get 3-4 stars. At J-Tree, folk would start lining up at 5am and by 9am there would be 6 parties (not 6 climbers!) waiting in line.

Great climbing, great view.

history lesson

Platinum Slab

Belay Tom up the Wheat Thin Arete

The hand drawn topo. I was only able to find a really crappy picture of the original topo on NE alpine start. My girlfriend traced over it to make it readable. The cajun washboard pitch became "the cajun woman bond", but otherwise everything looks good.

Off the Anchor P4 "Open Book"

Scramble up to a nice tree for the first belay station.

Beautiful route

Dorian following high Low Beer Light pitch.

Pitch 3

Low Beer Light Pitch

Look, Ma, no hands!—nearing the top of P7

Wheat Thin Arete

Leading pitch 2 - The Wheat Thin Arete. Photo by N. Santos - 6/2022

John Garlough on the Open Book pitch

Nuno at the belay after leading pitch 3 - The Cajun Washboard - 6/2022

Looking down at the Cajun Washboard pitch, 5.6

For our Marines and Sailors in Quarantine ! OH RAH

Upper 3 pitch's as seen from the Guides Wall

The Wheat Thin Arete. Dave Lottman photo.

The Cajun Washboard. Dave Lottman photo.

Open Book Pitch Exit Cracks

The original topo

A view of the top of the Open Book pitch, merging into the Northwest Passage pitch, was taken from Beginner's Easy. You can see a steep flake beyond the tree with the tat (orange tat here). I think this is the correct flake to climb. There's also a chunky flake beside a tree, about 10 feet further back, which is much easier if you have any doubts.

Crack behind the tree atop pitch 1. This is a great spot to make a belay anchor while standing on the ledge.

View of Cormier-Magness Platinum Slab pitch from Beginners Easy Variation (maybe). There's some nice slab at the right of Cormier-Magness.

Wheat Thin Arete from Beginner's Easy Belay

The Platinum Slab

8/11/24/ unknown climber on the Wheat Thin Arete

The licheny P4 traverse.

Pitch 3 Cormier Magness

Looking down P4 just before starting up the final flake/handcrack.

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