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Routes in East Face - Lower

Hitchcock Gully 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-
LHMW Bypass WI2+
Left Hand Monkey Wrench WI3
Willard Slab Right WI2
Type: Ice
FA: Randy Noble, John Bussulak, 1997
Page Views: 4,848 total, 40/month
Shared By: BrianWinslow on Feb 3, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A great pitch to avoid the mixed climbing on Lower Hitchcock, or to bypass a slower party. Not a bad climb in itself either.

Location

From the base of Hitchock gully hike north (right) along the cliff band for approximately 5 minutes. The Flow will come down from a right facing corner, making it hard to see on the approach.

[Note: In 2015 the 'path' started about 300-400 ft up Hitchcock opposite a 20-25ft high boulder/cliff on the left. (This is the first significant rock encountered.) A rising traverse to the right through trees, then on snow-covered slab (50-100ft below a rock-cliff-wall) then further up and right led to the base. I'd say "5 minutes" is rather optimistic !

To use this as a descent: from the base of Upper Hitchcock, move downhill-left (climber's right) through open slabs and and then more-or-less straight down through some trees. Best to follow a path (as we did) if you haven't done it before. Rap anchors are on a 6-8" diameter birch tree; rap with a single 70m (or long-ish 60m) down the climber's-left side to a huge double-trunked tree. Ropes will run over rock about 20 ft down, watch for potential lose rock. R. Hall]

Protection

Standard ice rack.
chinos
  WI3
chinos  
  WI3
lower hitchcock option is easiest Dec 23, 2013
Ross Purnell
Palmyra
Ross Purnell   Palmyra
Question on the approach. Do you hike north along the train tracks, or do you scramble up to Lower Hitchcock from the tracks, hit the cliff band, then hike north? Sounds like the latter but wanted to check. Dec 19, 2013
Did this last season. Enjoyable, but short.

Quick word of warning: the chandelier that can form on the left side tends to be fragile. It got hit by a small chunk of ice dislodged by a climber above and basically exploded, hitting a pair of climbers racking up underneath it with a pair of microwaved sized blocks (they were fine, just called it a day after that incident).

I recommend waiting on the right end of the climb to avoid falling ice. Jun 15, 2010