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Routes in Ace of Spades Crag

Ace of Spades WI4
Overbid WI4+
Short trick WI3
Trump card WI3
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Type: Ice, 120 ft
FA: Rainsford & Tim Rouner, winter 1974-75
Page Views: 884 total · 19/month
Shared By: Kristian Starheim on Dec 21, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

4 Opinions

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Climb the steep headwall. Several possibilities in the end: left steep wall up to anchor, or right to several easier possibilities.


Main flow. Can't miss it. Descent depends on where you exit. There is a rapell-anchor to the left where one 30-m rapell will take you to the ground (anchor shared by Overbid). To the right two 60m-ropes or two rappells via trees to the far right of flow will take you to the ground.


Ice screws.


alpineclimb Cormier
Stratham, NH
alpineclimb Cormier   Stratham, NH
There's a great mixed route variation to Ace of Spades. Climb the first step of ice then move climbers right to the heavily cracked and featured face. Move up until your back on the ice and over to the normal finish. M3-4ish Jan 8, 2015
Kristian Starheim
Trondheim, Norway
Kristian Starheim   Trondheim, Norway
Also looks like the small buttress climbers left of lower wall of Ace of Spades could offer some cool mixed options Jan 9, 2015

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