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Routes in Standard Route Area

Type: Ice, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,598 total, 30/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 1, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Description

One of my favorite routes at Frankenstein for sure, though the lower slabby climbing is not anything special the pillar and chimney at the top get full marks for quality...

Pitch 1: Start up the often very thin, lower angle climbing from the base... This section can be unprotectable for a while so bring a steady nerve... follow this slab (Which gets fatter and safer as you go) for a long pitch making a couple tricky sometimes mixed moves to gain a ledge on the left below a nice pillar... belay from trees or screws...

This ledge can also be accessed by traversing right from the right side of Standard Route... Thereby getting a safer and steeper start to the route...

Pitch 2: Climb the nice pillar to a ledge where you can belay if you'd like to split up the pitch... I normally place a piece of rock gear here as a directional for the second as they mantel the pillar... Step right and climb some awkward ice to get in to the chimney which is the real prize of the climb... True mixed climbing in moderate form where you are climbing rock moves, pure ice, and dry tooling and none of it is too strenuous... a few pieces of rock gear go in here for pro and before you know it you are pulling over the top and belaying in the trees...


Some people like to split these pitches up for better communication and visual contact, but i like doing it in two pitches...

Location

After walking to the base of Standard Route continue down the tracks a short distance and look up in to woods... you will see a thin slab of ice heading up bulges... This is your route...

Protection

Bring some stubbies for the thin lower part (or be ready to run it out)... for the chimney section bring a small rack of nuts and cams...

Photos

Adam Wilcox
Candia, NH
 
Adam Wilcox   Candia, NH
 
I would give the last pitch 5 stars if I could. So much fun! Jan 8, 2011