Type: Ice, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: S. Streibert and D. Merritt, 1971
Page Views: 13,314 total · 67/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Mar 7, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

An incredible-looking blob of cool blue ice. Due to its size, Standard Route has plenty of options - and all seem fun. The line of least resistance goes at WI3 but some of the bulges may be steep and harder, if tackled straight on. The only downside to this awesome climb is the crowds.

Most popular variation of the Standard climbs to the right, through the right-side cave with bolts. Setting a belay in the cave, although interesting, results in 3 instead of 2 pitches, with some awkward leading just after the cave (the belayer can't see you and you need to be careful to avoid rope drag). The better way, in my opinion, is to skip the cave and lead all the way up to the top of the bulge (60m ropes). From the top of the bulge continue on easy bulges to the trees. Near the top, there's also a short WI4 curtain on the right, for those who want to add an extra kick.

Reference: "An Ice Climber's Guide to Northern New England" by S. P. Lewis & R. Wilcox

Location Suggest change

Roughly 300 yards along the tracks past the trestle. Impossible to miss.

From the top of the climb, walk right and follow the trail, past the gully on top of Dracula . The trail eventually goes down and winds back. Hike past the base of the cliff back to the start of Standard.

Protection Suggest change

Ice screws