Avg: 3.5 from 171 votes
|Type:||Ice, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||S. Streibert and D. Merritt, 1971|
|Page Views:||10,838 total · 67/month|
|Shared By:||Kris Gorny on Mar 7, 2008|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
Most popular variation of the Standard climbs to the right, through the right-side cave with bolts. Setting a belay in the cave, although interesting, results in 3 instead of 2 pitches, with some awkward leading just after the cave (the belayer can't see you and you need to be careful to avoid rope drag). The better way, in my opinion, is to skip the cave and lead all the way up to the top of the bulge (60m ropes). From the top of the bulge continue on easy bulges to the trees. Near the top, there's also a short WI4 curtain on the right, for those who want to add an extra kick.
Reference: "An Ice Climber's Guide to Northern New England" by S. P. Lewis & R. Wilcox
Winter Trains??? On Dec 17th, 2018 around noon I saw a single engine plowing the tracks through the "cut" at the top of the notch. (By Elephant Head) and can only assume the engine cleared the whole way from Bartlett through the notch. Later in the winter of 2018-19 the tracks became totally filled in. Whether The Conway Scenic Railroad ("CSR") might run winter (Christmas???) trains in years of low snowfall is not known. Act accordingly. R Hall NH Admin.
From the top of the climb, walk right and follow the trail, past the gully on top of Dracula . The trail eventually goes down and winds back. Hike past the base of the cliff back to the start of Standard.