Avg: 3.5 from 192 votes
|Type:||Ice, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||S. Streibert and D. Merritt, 1971|
|Page Views:||12,286 total · 67/month|
|Shared By:||Kris Gorny on Mar 7, 2008|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall|
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An incredible-looking blob of cool blue ice. Due to its size, Standard Route has plenty of options - and all seem fun. The line of least resistance goes at WI3 but some of the bulges may be steep and harder, if tackled straight on. The only downside to this awesome climb is the crowds.
Most popular variation of the Standard climbs to the right, through the right-side cave with bolts. Setting a belay in the cave, although interesting, results in 3 instead of 2 pitches, with some awkward leading just after the cave (the belayer can't see you and you need to be careful to avoid rope drag). The better way, in my opinion, is to skip the cave and lead all the way up to the top of the bulge (60m ropes). From the top of the bulge continue on easy bulges to the trees. Near the top, there's also a short WI4 curtain on the right, for those who want to add an extra kick.
Reference: "An Ice Climber's Guide to Northern New England" by S. P. Lewis & R. Wilcox
From the top of the climb, walk right and follow the trail, past the gully on top of Dracula . The trail eventually goes down and winds back. Hike past the base of the cliff back to the start of Standard.