Type: Ice, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: S. Streibert and D. Merritt, 1971
Page Views: 8,334 total · 62/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Mar 7, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

An incredible-looking blob of cool blue ice. Due to its size, Standard Route has plenty of options - and all seem fun. The line of least resistance goes at WI3 but some of the bulges may be steep and harder, if tackled straight on. The only downside to this awesome climb is the crowds.

Most popular variation of the Standard climbs to the right, through the right-side cave with bolts. Setting a belay in the cave, although interesting, results in 3 instead of 2 pitches, with some awkward leading just after the cave (the belayer can't see you and you need to be careful to avoid rope drag). The better way, in my opinion, is to skip the cave and lead all the way up to the top of the bulge (60m ropes). From the top of the bulge continue on easy bulges to the trees. Near the top, there's also a short WI4 curtain on the right, for those who want to add an extra kick.

Reference: "An Ice Climber's Guide to Northern New England" by S. P. Lewis & R. Wilcox

Winter Trains??? On Dec 17th, 2018 around noon I saw a single engine plowing the tracks through the "cut" at the top of the notch. (By Elephant Head) and can only assume the engine cleared the whole way from Bartlett through the notch. Later in the winter of 2018-19 the tracks became totally filled in.  Whether  The Conway Scenic Railroad ("CSR") might run winter (Christmas???) trains in years of low snowfall is not known. Act accordingly.  R Hall NH Admin.

Location

Roughly 300 yards along the tracks past the trestle. Impossible to miss.

From the top of the climb, walk right and follow the trail, past the gully on top of Dracula . The trail eventually goes down and winds back. Hike past the base of the cliff back to the start of Standard.

Protection

Ice screws

Photos

Adam Wilcox
Candia, NH
  WI3
Adam Wilcox   Candia, NH
  WI3
There are two fixed anchors inside the cave. On the right side you'll find a pair of bolts with rap rings. Less obvious, on the left side are some pins which can be backed up nicely with a #1 Camalot.

I made the mistake of going straight for the bolts as soon as I saw them, when I wanted to exit the left side of the cave. Maybe you won't have to move your anchor, like I did. Mar 23, 2008
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  WI3+
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  WI3+
This is a great route for WI 3 climbers looking to do their first multi-pitch route. Super fun but its popular on weekends so avoid parties above you! Jun 1, 2008
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  WI3
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  WI3
Several lines possible here. We climbed the left side from the cave but bypassing the cave on the right looks fun(also the better option if you set the belay up at the bolts.) On the top of the climb near the left side is a fun WI4- pillar. Jan 12, 2012