Type: Ice, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,351 total · 16/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jan 4, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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As you look up at the large flow of "Standard" there are two caves. [See photo]  The normal route climbs to the cave on the right (where there is [2019] both a 3-piton anchor and a double bolt anchor).  The normal route steps out left from this "right hand cave" and then follows the easiest path up a shallow groove/corner formation. (The "window variation" climbs out a "window" on the right.)

The cave on the left presents an opportunity to climb a completely separate route (except for the exit "pitch 3").   In the early years ( i.e. 1970's, before the bolts were put into the cave on the right, and before some changes in the water flow changed the ice pattern) this variant was considered pretty much the "standard" way to climb "Standard", as it offered a solid rock-belay. Today the old pins have long gone and hardly anyone does "Standard" this way anymore. It's usually a bit more difficult (1/2 grade??) than the 'standard' way to climb Standard.  

P1 - Climb to the "cave" on the left. WI 3   Bring rock gear for the belay.

P2 - Move out right (photo) and up the flow to the top, WI 3+ to 4- depending on conditions and where you go.   Some belay at a pine tree and do a "Pitch 3" exit pitch.


Left side of the main flow.


Usual ice screws, rock gear to back up any old pins in the cave.