Type: Ice, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 741 total · 14/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jan 4, 2015
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

As you look up at the large flow of "Standard" there are two caves. [See photo]  The normal route climbs to the cave on the right (where there is [2019] both a 3-piton anchor and a double bolt anchor).  The normal route steps out left from this "right hand cave" and then follows the easiest path up a shallow groove/corner formation. (The "window variation" climbs out a "window" on the right.)

The cave on the left presents an opportunity to climb a completely separate route (except for the exit "pitch 3").   In the early years ( i.e. 1970's, before the bolts were put into the cave on the right, and before some changes in the water flow changed the ice pattern) this variant was considered pretty much the "standard" way to climb "Standard", as it offered a solid rock-belay. Today the old pins have long gone and hardly anyone does "Standard" this way anymore. It's usually a bit more difficult (1/2 grade??) than the 'standard' way to climb Standard.  

P1 - Climb to the "cave" on the left. WI 3   Bring rock gear for the belay.

P2 - Move out right (photo) and up the flow to the top, WI 3+ to 4- depending on conditions and where you go.   Some belay at a pine tree and do a "Pitch 3" exit pitch.

Location

Left side of the main flow.

Protection

Usual ice screws, rock gear to back up any old pins in the cave.

Photos

Rob, this listing is confusing. Get rid of it! Exiting the Cave to its left IS the Standard Route main flow. Also, the listed grade for Standard Route should be 3 as it is easily climbed at that grade, anything steeper requires that you seek steeper ice.

Thanks Chris...I've re-written the description and hopefully cleared up any confusion. I agree on the "3" for the standard way to climb Standard, but a MntPrjct algorithm determines the grade from all the grades submitted by those "ticking" the climb. R Hall Admin. Feb 24, 2019