Type: | Ice, 150 ft (45 m) |
FA: | FRA Jay Briscoe and Mike Mac |
Page Views: | 2,301 total · 27/month |
Shared By: | John Chan on Feb 12, 2018 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
The right of way for the railroad extends 50 feet on either side of the tracks, so while walking next to the tracks is likely safer, from the point of view of the railway it does not necessarily provide a solution. Ideally climbers should avoid being near the tracks whenever possible. We're requesting that climbers use alternative approach trails when it makes sense, such as in the case of the Frankenstein Cliff trail. If you do need to use the tracks, we want people to be aware of the situation, and to try not to spend excess time on them.
Description
Really cool climb that probably doesn't come in very often. (About 50+ ft left of the inside corner of Penguin. See photo of the 3 routes, and COMMENT on the Puffin photo. R Hall, NH Admin.)
the first section climbs like WPP (lost in the forest area, see wilcox book), i feel the crux was near the top, but right when it gets pumpy, you can get your hip into the off width, similar to pegasus rock.
the 2nd section is like a mini repentance (very mini). looking at 20-25 feet of a runnel of ice, fitting 2 boot widths at times. it widens up top.
crux is the first section, right before pulling over the sheet.
i'm calling it WI4 to deter people who can comfortably climb 3's to get on it, it involves a bit more technical climbing. i personally felt it was harder than penguin, which i've lead 3 times, and harder than WPP which is rated 3+ R YMMV
2 Comments