Type: Ice, 150 ft (45 m)
FA: FRA Jay Briscoe and Mike Mac
Page Views: 2,301 total · 27/month
Shared By: John Chan on Feb 12, 2018
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


16 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

Really cool climb that probably doesn't come in very often. (About 50+ ft left of the inside corner of Penguin. See photo of the 3 routes, and COMMENT on the Puffin photo. R Hall, NH Admin.)

the first section climbs like WPP (lost in the forest area, see wilcox book), i feel the crux was near the top, but right when it gets pumpy, you can get your hip into the off width, similar to pegasus rock.

the 2nd section is like a mini repentance (very mini). looking at 20-25 feet of a runnel of ice, fitting 2 boot widths at times. it widens up top.

crux is the first section, right before pulling over the sheet.

i'm calling it WI4 to deter people who can comfortably climb 3's to get on it, it involves a bit more technical climbing. i personally felt it was harder than penguin, which i've lead 3 times, and harder than WPP which is rated 3+ R YMMV

Location Suggest change

It sits between 2nd pitch of standard and start of the business part of penguin. 

walkoff is best, but if it's not busy, leave some fixed gear and rap down. double 60's gets you at the start of penguin (the good part)

Protection Suggest change

fixed pin at the start, 13s at best, stubbies

Photos

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