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Routes in The Cake Walk Area

A Piece of Cake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Above and Beyond T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cake Walk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Run Don't Walk T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Think Fast Mr. Moto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Unknown ["Let Them Eat Cake ???] left of Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wanderlust T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where The Sidewalk Ends T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Albert Dow and Michael Hartrich - Summer 1981
Page Views: 2,207 total, 21/month
Shared By: Annaconda on Apr 28, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

P1 - Start up the slab, clip three bolts then find a good cam placement. Pull the overlaps above (crux)and cruise to the two bolt belay/rappel anchor. 5.8+

P2 - Wander up and left, placing small gear (tricams are useful) between the widely spaced bolts, to another two-bolt anchor (which you can't see until you're about 10 feet from it ... just keep moving up and left). 5.7

Location

On the left side of Humphrey's, look for a nice reddish slab left of a blocky left-facing corner ...

Protection

Bolts and standard rack to #2 cam. One rap with double 60m ropes, or with a single 60m, you can rap straight down from the top of P2 to the rap anchor on the top of P1 of Run Don't Walk, then to the ground from there.

Photos

Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
 
It's very easy to combine both pitches and it goes really fast. The second pitch is much easier than the first (barely 5.6) but really nice. Once you get to know this section of the cliff, it's easy to bang out 6 - 8 nice short pitches in the 5.6 - 5.9 range and not be late for work! Jun 22, 2015
Martin Hawkes
Intervale, NH
 
Martin Hawkes   Intervale, NH
 
The North Conway Rock Climbs guide gives the P2 a 5.6 rating which seemed appropriate. May 20, 2014
Northeast Alpine Start
Conway, New Hampshire
Northeast Alpine Start   Conway, New Hampshire
This description could use an update: First off, this route was retro-bolted by permission in 2001. It is easy to find as there is a fresh blue paint marker designating WMNF boundary on the cliff. The preferred start is to clip the first bolt, then move right (and back left) to bypass a very tough mantle. Once you move back left pass another bolt, then a .75 cam with extended sling to the left, then commit to great holds but steep climbing. Find the good hold (out of sight) to clip a bolt from. Many people end up grabbing the bolt if 5.8 is their limit. Either an awkward high step, or easy work-around 5 feet to the right. One more bolt on moderate ground leads to the 2 bolt anchor. P2 is really fun but wandering 5.7 face (can be combined with P1 with a 60m rope). Don’t go straight up from the anchor as that is a newer, harder, route. Apr 30, 2014
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
From the P1 anchors, the shiny bolt directly above it seemed so logical. I'm glad I made this mistake because the second and third pitches of Above and Beyond were pretty alright. The crux of P3 (after the 2nd bolt) was particularly enjoyable. Sep 29, 2013
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Fun route. It reminded me a bit of The Saigons over at Cathedral. Mar 29, 2013
Chris Graham
Bartlett, NH
  5.8+
Chris Graham   Bartlett, NH
  5.8+
I agree Jon! I like this route more and more with every time I do it. Some great moves on it on solid rock. The second pitch is fun, but nowhere near as good as the first IMHO. May 2, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  5.8+
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  5.8+
Great Route, the first pitch is one of my favorites at Humphreys. S Apr 29, 2009