Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches
FA: Joe and Judy Perez, Al Hospers, July 2011
Page Views: 2,096 total · 17/month
Shared By: Tyler Wellman on Aug 27, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Doug Wentworth reports in a COMMENT (Oct 2020) "There's a very loose rock towards the top of P3, looks like an obvious jug but it's ready to blow. We tried to clean it on the way down, but it's about 2 feet wide and there were too many parties below to do it safely " [RHall NH Admin]

This is a fun direct line up the wanderlust wall, with each pitch having a nice face climbing crux.

Pitch 1 (5.9+): Start about 20 feet left of Wanderlust, and climb the right facing corner (with gear) on the right side of the small buttress that Run Don't Walk starts on. Head for the two bolts on the headwall, clip em, and after the bulge head past one more bolt to the Wanderlust belay.

Pitch 2 (5.9): Head straight up past 6 bolts to another 2-bolt belay below the steeper section of wall on the right.

Pitch 3 (5.9+): Head out right from the belay to the obvious bolts on the steep wall. Some fun tricky moves will get you past the first 3 bolts, then follow easier terrain straight up to the 2+1 bolt anchor at the top below a steep wall.

Rap thrice with a 60m to get down.

Location

About 20 feet left of Wanderlust (which has a big blue paint streak at its start), at a right facing corner.

Protection

Draws, and maybe 1-3" cams for the initial corner. The second and third pitches don't need gear.

Photos