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Routes in The Cake Walk Area

A Piece of Cake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Above and Beyond T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cake Walk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Run Don't Walk T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Think Fast Mr. Moto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Unknown ["Let Them Eat Cake ???] left of Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wanderlust T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where The Sidewalk Ends T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Joe and Judy Perez, Al Hospers, July 2011
Page Views: 998 total, 15/month
Shared By: twellman on Aug 27, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is a fun direct line up the wanderlust wall, with each pitch having a nice face climbing crux.

Pitch 1 (5.9+): Start about 20 feet left of Wanderlust, and climb the right facing corner (with gear) on the right side of the small buttress that Run Don't Walk starts on. Head for the two bolts on the headwall, clip em, and after the bulge head past one more bolt to the Wanderlust belay.

Pitch 2 (5.9): Head straight up past 6 bolts to another 2-bolt belay below the steeper section of wall on the right.

Pitch 3 (5.9+): Head out right from the belay to the obvious bolts on the steep wall. Some fun tricky moves will get you past the first 3 bolts, then follow easier terrain straight up to the 2+1 bolt anchor at the top below a steep wall.

Rap thrice with a 60m to get down.

Location

About 20 feet left of Wanderlust (which has a big blue paint streak at its start), at a right facing corner.

Protection

Draws, and maybe 1-3" cams for the initial corner. The second and third pitches don't need gear.

Photos

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Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
I so wish the belay anchor atop the 2nd pitch had been placed about a 18 inches higher. Makes for an awkward stance when an amazingly comfy stance is not only possible, but really obvious. Not really a complaint, just a minor whine from a middle-aged local. Been looking at this route for years, BTW, and just never got out to do it. You snooze, you lose, I guess...nice job. Jul 23, 2015
Rob Albert
  5.9-
Rob Albert  
  5.9-
I would not run 2+3 together, since the hard move is close to the move off the belay on P2. You want your belayer to be able to see you for that. P1 is significantly easier than 5.9. We ran P1+P2 together with a 70m rope. Be sure to bring a lot of draws, or else be prepared to back-clean. Sep 22, 2014
kevin neville
Somerville, MA
  5.9
kevin neville   Somerville, MA
  5.9
P2 feels significantly easier than the listed 5.9. Cruxes on P1 and P3 are fairly short and well-protected. It works well to run P2 and P3 together; be wary of combining P1 and P2 -- P1 crux is low and your second could deck due to rope stretch. Aug 22, 2014
Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
  5.9
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
  5.9
Very fun! Jun 29, 2014
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
You know, "thrice" just isn't used enough these days. Bravo for expanding the vernacular! Mar 29, 2013
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
The nut on the second bolt of pitch 3 was loose when I climbed this the other day. I hand-tightened it, but if someone has the foresight to bring a wrench, it could use a good torqueing!

A very fun outing, with well-proctected cruxes, nice belays, and good exposure and views. Aug 27, 2012