Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Cake Walk Area

A Piece of Cake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Above and Beyond T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cake Walk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Run Don't Walk T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Think Fast Mr. Moto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Unknown ["Let Them Eat Cake ???] left of Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wanderlust T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where The Sidewalk Ends T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P.1 Peter Lewis & Robert Sagerman, summer 2001, P.2 Peter Lewis & Brian Johnston, summer 2001
Page Views: 976 total, 13/month
Shared By: Jeremy A on Aug 30, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Great overhanging climb that keeps your attention the whole way. The crux is definitely the roof on the first pitch. Climb the broken corner/face to a great right to left facing crack (medium size gear/ #2) to a ledge. Protect left and/or make high delicate moves to the bolt(crux). Clip and surmount the roof past 2 more bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The crux could be serious business. Take your time and commit to the moves.

P2. Put on the crimp gloves and climb straight up the thin face above past three bolts and some natural gear (cams/tricams) to easier climbing to the right end of a ledge above and a two bolt anchor.

Location

Take the trail up and left along the cliff band. Stay right when the trail splits and go up hill. Wanderlust will be in front of you. This route is located 2 routes left of Wanderlust. Look for the right to left trending crack about 25' up...hard to see unless your standing a little back.

2 raps with 1 60m, or 1 with double 60's.

Protection

Medium size gear cams/tricams and draws. Bolted Anchors.

Photos

- No Photos -
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
 
I agree with Rob that the first pitch crux section is MUCH easier to do once you've initially figured it out. There is a pretty straightforward sequence, but you can't really see the holds until you move up to reach for them. Regarding the position of the first bolt: I hate putting bolts next to cracks (in fact, I'm quite certain that I've never done that), and a creative leader with a small standard rack will be able to get good pro in the small horizontal that Rob mentions (brown Tricam, as I recall). And the moves above it to the first bolt are on solid holds. So, when we put the route up, we tried very hard to minimize the number of bolts (that goes for P.2, as well). It's a cute little route that packs a bunch of nice moves (and a bit of hard pulling) into two short pitches. Mar 2, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.9
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.9
I thought this was a climb that, once you knew the sequence, and best hand placements, would be significantly easier than the first time you do it. I found myself wasting energy moving my initial hand placements to better-feeling placements, which then usually meant the feet had to change too. Of course, if you're mega-strong just "climb away".

B1 could be 4-6" lower ( and I'm 6 ft ) but there's a nice horizontal Cam/Tricam slot below it. Nov 10, 2015
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
 
RDW starts up the little clean buttress ten feet left of Above and Beyond's initial r-facing corner. Look for a white pine on a ledgy area 20 feet up. Crux is above the pine. To call this an "overhanging climb" is misleading. Yes, there is a steep, bulgy crux section past the first two bolts on the first pitch, but if it's overhanging it's barely overhanging and only about 10 feet long. And "roof" is quite the overstatement, too. Three pulls on big jugs (.9) get you to easier ground. Pitch two is just nice, moderately steep face climbing. Jul 29, 2015