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Elevation: 2,559 ft 780 m
GPS: 44.20345, -71.41028
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 134,050 total · 669/month
Shared By: BrianWinslow on Feb 3, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall
Warning Access Issue: Avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Winter Trains??? On Dec 17th, 2018 around noon I saw a single engine plowing the tracks through the "cut" at the top of the notch. (By Elephant Head) and can only assume the engine cleared the whole way from Bartlett through the notch. Later in the winter of 2018-19 the tracks became totally filled in.  Whether  The Conway Scenic Railroad ("CSR") might run winter (Christmas???) trains in years of low snowfall is not known. Act accordingly.  R Hall NH Admin.

Though I wouldn't describe this area as an "alpine" area, it is very exposed and can be very cold in bad weather. The approach is somewhat technical and to retreat from some of the upper routes requires a rappel and some technical 4th class downclimbing.

The routes are spread out along the east and south faces. The East face can be broken into the lower and upper cliff bands and contain some great moderate climbs like Hitchcock Gully and the East Face Slabs as well as some tough mixed lines, like Dial M for Murder. The south face has a variety of climbs like the numbered gullies, Great Madness, and the Cinema Gully.

The routes offer great views over the notch and the large amount and variety of routes make Mt. Willard feel like an alpine playground.

Getting There Suggest change

Access Update! Do not walk on railroad tracks to approach the climbing areas! The traditional way to get to Mt Willard ice climbing (Park at the top of the Notch in a plowed out parking lot, just south of the AMC Highland Center. Walk south along the railroad tracks to the bottom of the area in which you plan to climb.) is no longer allowed. The railroad company owns the tracks and they have clearly posted “No Trespassing” signs to indicate that they do not want climbers walking there. This is very unfortunate to say the least, but they have a legal right to deny us access to their property. If you walk on the tracks you could be fined or arrested. Trains will be running through the winter so be safe and be smart. Stay off the tracks. 

Mt Willard is a very tricky situation. There is a trail from one of the pullouts down the hill from the one we have been using that may access some of  the climbing but suffice to say, this is an ongoing situation and we do not have all the answers yet. 

Sub-Areas are listed approximately south-to-north (OK, I know it's "backwards" if you're walking down the RR Tracks, but it's left-to-right consistent) R Hall NH Admin. 

41 Total Climbs

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Location: 7. Mt. Willard (Ice) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Willard (Ice)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3
 129
Left Hand Monkey Wrench
Ice
WI3+
 84
East Face Slab Right
Ice
WI2
 75
Cinema Gully
Ice 3 pitches
WI3+
 45
Elephant Head Gully
Ice
WI4
 68
Read Between The Lines
Trad, Ice
WI4
 36
Gully 1
Ice
WI5
 24
Great Madness
Ice 2 pitches
WI2+
 127
The Cleft
Ice 2 pitches
WI4
 34
Rear Window
Ice 2 pitches
WI3
 17
Cauliflower Gully
Ice
WI4-5 M3
 11
The Snot Rocket
Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
WI3-
 104
Upper Hitchcock Gully
Trad, Ice
WI5
 10
Out of Touch
Ice
WI4+ M8
 5
Dial M for Murder
Sport, Mixed, Ice
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3- M3
 118
Hitchcock Gully (Lower)
Trad, Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Left Hand Monkey Wrench 04. E Face - Lower
 129
WI3 Ice
East Face Slab Right 05. E Face - Upper
 84
WI3+ Ice
Cinema Gully 02. Main Face (aka S…
 75
WI2 Ice 3 pitches
Elephant Head Gully 06. Trestle / Top of…
 45
WI3+ Ice
Read Between The Lines 05. E Face - Upper
 68
WI4 Trad, Ice
Gully 1 02. Main Face (aka S…
 36
WI4 Ice
Great Madness 02. Main Face (aka S…
 24
WI5 Ice 2 pitches
The Cleft 05. E Face - Upper
 127
WI2+ Ice 2 pitches
Rear Window 05. E Face - Upper
 34
WI4 Ice 2 pitches
Cauliflower Gully 03. Upper Tier (aka S…
 17
WI3 Ice
The Snot Rocket 06. Trestle / Top of…
 11
WI4-5 M3 Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
Upper Hitchcock Gully 05. E Face - Upper
 104
WI3- Trad, Ice
Out of Touch 05. E Face - Upper
 10
WI5 Ice
Dial M for Murder 05. E Face - Upper
 5
WI4+ M8 Sport, Mixed, Ice
Hitchcock Gully (Lower) 04. E Face - Lower
 118
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3- M3 Trad, Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
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