Elevation: 2,575 ft
GPS: 44.203, -71.41 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 62,481 total · 461/month
Shared By: BrianWinslow on Feb 3, 2008 with updates from Kurtz
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

Winter Trains??? On Dec 17th, 2018 around noon I saw a single engine plowing the tracks through the "cut" at the top of the notch. (By Elephant Head) and can only assume the engine cleared the whole way from Bartlett through the notch. Later in the winter of 2018-19 the tracks became totally filled in.  Whether  The Conway Scenic Railroad ("CSR") might run winter (Christmas???) trains in years of low snowfall is not known. Act accordingly.  R Hall NH Admin.

Though I wouldn't describe this area as an "alpine" area, it is very exposed and can be very cold in bad weather. The approach is somewhat technical and to retreat from some of the upper routes requires a rappel and some technical 4th class downclimbing.

The routes are spread out along the east and south faces. The East face can be broken into the lower and upper cliff bands and contain some great moderate climbs like Hitchcock Gully and the East Face Slabs as well as some tough mixed lines, like Dial M for Murder. The south face has a variety of climbs like the numbered gullies, Great Madness, and the Cinema Gully.

The routes offer great views over the notch and the large amount and variety of routes make Mt. Willard feel like an alpine playground.

Getting There

Park at the top of the Notch in a plowed out parking lot, just south of the AMC Highland Center. Many hiking trails leave from this lot so it tends to fill up early. Walk south along the railroad tracks to the bottom of the area in which you plan to climb.

31 Total Climbs

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Location: Mt. Willard (Ice) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Willard (Ice)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3
 75
Left Hand Monkey Wrench
Ice
WI3+
 51
East Face Slab Right
Ice
WI2
 53
Cinema Gully
Ice 3 pitches
WI3+
 39
Elephant Head Gully
Ice
WI4
 28
Read Between The Lines
Trad, Ice
WI4
 27
Gully 1
Ice
WI5
 13
Great Madness
Ice 2 pitches
WI2+
 67
The Cleft
Ice 2 pitches
WI4
 9
Rear Window
Ice 2 pitches
WI2-3
 8
Cauliflower Gully
Ice
WI3
 24
East Face Slab
Ice
WI4-5 M3
 10
The Snot Rocket
Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
WI3-
 48
Upper Hitchcock Gully
Trad, Ice
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-
 91
Hitchcock Gully (Lower)
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI4
 3
Damsel in Distress
Ice
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Left Hand Monkey Wrench E Face - Lower
 75
WI3 Ice
East Face Slab Right E Face - Upper
 51
WI3+ Ice
Cinema Gully S Face - Lower
 53
WI2 Ice 3 pitches
Elephant Head Gully Trestle / Top of Notc…
 39
WI3+ Ice
Read Between The Lines E Face - Upper
 28
WI4 Trad, Ice
Gully 1 S Face - Lower
 27
WI4 Ice
Great Madness S Face - Lower
 13
WI5 Ice 2 pitches
The Cleft E Face - Upper
 67
WI2+ Ice 2 pitches
Rear Window E Face - Upper
 9
WI4 Ice 2 pitches
Cauliflower Gully S Face - Upper
 8
WI2-3 Ice
East Face Slab E Face - Upper
 24
WI3 Ice
The Snot Rocket Trestle / Top of Notc…
 10
WI4-5 M3 Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
Upper Hitchcock Gully E Face - Upper
 48
WI3- Trad, Ice
Hitchcock Gully (Lower) E Face - Lower
 91
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3- Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Damsel in Distress E Face - Upper
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI4 Ice
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
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There's a broken piece of grating on the first (I think) railroad bridge you get to when heading out to the Mt. Willard climbs. I was walking out in the dark by headlamp yesterday and stepped on a piece of grating which had fallen through on one end. It bent significantly with my weight but thankfully held me from falling through. This is a pretty serious hazard.

EDIT: Guess this has been like this for a while. Still think it should get fixed or someone's gonna fall through eventually. Jan 24, 2016