Elevation: 2,563 ft
GPS: 44.203, -71.41 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 110,590 total · 657/month
Shared By: BrianWinslow on Feb 3, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

Winter Trains??? On Dec 17th, 2018 around noon I saw a single engine plowing the tracks through the "cut" at the top of the notch. (By Elephant Head) and can only assume the engine cleared the whole way from Bartlett through the notch. Later in the winter of 2018-19 the tracks became totally filled in.  Whether  The Conway Scenic Railroad ("CSR") might run winter (Christmas???) trains in years of low snowfall is not known. Act accordingly.  R Hall NH Admin.

Though I wouldn't describe this area as an "alpine" area, it is very exposed and can be very cold in bad weather. The approach is somewhat technical and to retreat from some of the upper routes requires a rappel and some technical 4th class downclimbing.

The routes are spread out along the east and south faces. The East face can be broken into the lower and upper cliff bands and contain some great moderate climbs like Hitchcock Gully and the East Face Slabs as well as some tough mixed lines, like Dial M for Murder. The south face has a variety of climbs like the numbered gullies, Great Madness, and the Cinema Gully.

The routes offer great views over the notch and the large amount and variety of routes make Mt. Willard feel like an alpine playground.

Getting There

Park at the top of the Notch in a plowed out parking lot, just south of the AMC Highland Center. Many hiking trails leave from this lot so it tends to fill up early. Walk south along the railroad tracks to the bottom of the area in which you plan to climb.

Sub-Areas are listed approximately south-to-north (OK, I know it's "backwards" if you're walking down the RR Tracks, but it's left-to-right consistent) R Hall NH Admin.

33 Total Climbs

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Location: 7. Mt. Willard (Ice) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Willard (Ice)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3
 101
Left Hand Monkey Wrench
Ice
WI3+
 68
East Face Slab Right
Ice
WI2
 64
Cinema Gully
Ice 3 pitches
WI3+
 43
Elephant Head Gully
Ice
WI4
 40
Read Between The Lines
Trad, Ice
WI4
 34
Gully 1
Ice
WI5
 16
Great Madness
Ice 2 pitches
WI2+
 97
The Cleft
Ice 2 pitches
WI4
 22
Rear Window
Ice 2 pitches
WI2-3
 14
Cauliflower Gully
Ice
WI3
 28
East Face Slab
Ice
WI4-5 M3
 11
The Snot Rocket
Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
WI3
 81
Upper Hitchcock Gully
Trad, Ice
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-
 107
Hitchcock Gully (Lower)
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI4
 6
Damsel in Distress
Ice
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Left Hand Monkey Wrench 04. E Face - Lower
 101
WI3 Ice
East Face Slab Right 05. E Face - Upper
 68
WI3+ Ice
Cinema Gully 02. Main Face (aka S…
 64
WI2 Ice 3 pitches
Elephant Head Gully 06. Trestle / Top of…
 43
WI3+ Ice
Read Between The Lines 05. E Face - Upper
 40
WI4 Trad, Ice
Gully 1 02. Main Face (aka S…
 34
WI4 Ice
Great Madness 02. Main Face (aka S…
 16
WI5 Ice 2 pitches
The Cleft 05. E Face - Upper
 97
WI2+ Ice 2 pitches
Rear Window 05. E Face - Upper
 22
WI4 Ice 2 pitches
Cauliflower Gully 03. Upper Tier (aka S…
 14
WI2-3 Ice
East Face Slab 05. E Face - Upper
 28
WI3 Ice
The Snot Rocket 06. Trestle / Top of…
 11
WI4-5 M3 Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
Upper Hitchcock Gully 05. E Face - Upper
 81
WI3 Trad, Ice
Hitchcock Gully (Lower) 04. E Face - Lower
 107
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3- Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Damsel in Distress 05. E Face - Upper
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI4 Ice
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