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Routes in 13E - The South Wall Area

Blue Room T WI3-4
Dave's Snotsicle T WI3-4
Dougs Route WI4+
Sargent-Severin WI4
Type: Trad, Ice, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 913 total, 27/month
Shared By: Connor F-M on Mar 8, 2015 with updates
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Description

The very start is often thin, but there are various ways of reaching the ledge of the main flow, so whatever looks doable is usually the best approach. The rest of the climb follows obvious ice with WI3 and WI4 options. A deciduous tree (I don't remember what kind, but might be beech) is the belay and rappel station for the final pitch. Two 60m ropes are handy for the descent. I have only done this climb once, so if anyone has better beta, please mention it. Great exposure and several route options.

Location

The large, obvious flow to the right of Blue Room. It's the taller climb that's almost immediately visible on the approach from 108.

Protection

Ice screws. Rap anchor on a tree after the last pitch and another, similar anchor on the large, snowy ledge below it.

Photos

TimVT
Burlington
  WI3-4
TimVT   Burlington
  WI3-4
If the first pitch isn't in, you can climb a small ice step near the base Doug's Route and traverse over to the belay anchor. Or you can climb the ice to the right of Blue Room. Either way you'll be rewarded with some great ice above! Feb 25, 2016