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Routes in Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice Climbing

Central Gully WI1
Damnation Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3- M2-3
Damnation Gully WI3
Diagonal Gully
Escape Hatch T
North Gully WI3
Odell's Gully WI2-3
Pinnacle Gully WI3
South gully WI1 PG13
Yale Gully WI2-3
Type: Ice, Alpine, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Samuel A Scoville & Julian Whittlesey 2/8/1930
Page Views: 25,506 total, 190/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 25, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Overall an amazing route in a great location. Pretty straightforward, but remote - so self-reliance is key. Most of the accidents, and "near misses" (of which there have been MANY!) occur, not on the NE-3 ice, but above the ice where snow conditions can be treacherous and misleading...what looks and feels like beautiful neve may be three-foot-thick windslab. Take care, and remember: "It ain't over till it's over!"

Location

To the left of the low-angle Central Gully and just to the right of Pinnacle Buttress.

Protection

Screws - possibly some rock gear for belays (there is fixed gear easily found on both sides of the gully at 60m rope lengths)
Ben Brotelho
Albany, NY
 
Ben Brotelho   Albany, NY
 
Any word on the condition of the Gully lately? NEice is slow to respond to inquiries...planning a trip in 2 weeks! Dec 5, 2012
Paul Rago  
 
i've been up this route twice and could only find fixed gear at the top of p1. There were two spots that had pins here, both on the overhanging wall: next to your head and down below by the snow. But the latter was snow covered and difficult to find. There was a pin near the end of p3 where a 0.5-0.75 C4 would also fit. Mar 21, 2011
Ian Wolfe
Fayetteville, NC
  WI3
Ian Wolfe   Fayetteville, NC
  WI3
Climbed the route Sunday, 4 April 2010. The right half of the climb was a raging torrent. The left half, was soft and wet, but screws held solid and the sticks were swing and forget. I brought with me a .5 and .75 camalot and a set of nuts, and was glad to have them.

We did the route in 4 pitches, with the 2nd and 4th being primarily snow. The 3rd, though not as difficult as the 1st pitch, was my favorite. The gully narrows to a couple meters across, the pinnacle pushes rock over your head, the waterfall was running down the right half. I could literally see water rushing under the ice I was kicking in to, and the ribbon of ice we were climbing was only about a meter wide! Wild!

I dropped my pack at the Alpine Garden, ran up and tagged the top 30 minutes later, and then returned to my pack to strap on the skis we had carried up with us. We skid down Tuckerman's and enjoyed a Hefe.

Glorious. Apr 6, 2010