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Routes in Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice Climbing

Central Gully WI1
Damnation Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3- M2-3
Damnation Gully WI3
Diagonal Gully
Escape Hatch T
North Gully WI3
Odell's Gully WI2-3
Pinnacle Gully WI3
South gully WI1 PG13
Yale Gully WI2-3
Type: Alpine, 1000 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,629 total, 28/month
Shared By: Adam Wilcox on Mar 24, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Diagonal Gully is a long, nearly arrow-straight snow gully running almost all the way to the very lip of the ravine. Its entrance is guarded by a 30 foot steep ice cliff which may be bypassed on the right, depending on conditions.

While OK snow climbing route, Diagonal is perhaps more popularly used as a descent route and makes for a fast way to get the bottom of the ravine and on to your next climb. The down climbing is moderate, but a slip would have unfortunate consequences as you'd go over the ice cliff at the bottom. As you near the cliff from above, traverse to the skier's left and down-climb or rappel as needed.


From the bottom: Diagonal is largely hidden from view from the floor of the ravine. Climb up towards the ice bulges well right of Central Gully until you can see a narrow gully going diagonally up.

From the top: Locate the large cairn where the Alpine Garden Trail intersects the summer Huntington Ravine Trail, near where Central Gully Tops out. From the cairn walk down toward the ravine and diagonally tot he left. Within a couple huindred feet you should see an obvious straight, narrow gully heading diagonally downwards.


Perhaps some ice screws for the bottom ice bulge. Snow pickets, if you're into that sort of thing.
Incredible ski line if you have the skill for it, way better than Tuckerman. Central Gulley is also a great line. Apr 19, 2012