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Routes in Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice Climbing

Central Gully WI1
Damnation Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3- M2-3
Damnation Gully WI3
Diagonal Gully
Escape Hatch T
North Gully WI3
Odell's Gully WI2-3
Pinnacle Gully WI3
South gully WI1 PG13
Yale Gully WI2-3
Type: Ice, Alpine, 1000 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,977 total · 63/month
Shared By: Adam Wilcox on Mar 21, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Yale gully is one of the longer climbs in the ravine. While not quite as memorable as Pinnacle or Odell's, this is still a worthwhile way to spend a few hours and is rarely crowded.

Begin with a slog up the long snow slope to the rope-length long Harvard ice bulge - easier on the right side, somewhat steeper to the left. Continue up easy snow into the shallow gully proper. Halfway up, the gully splits, with the left fork leading to the top, and the right apparently dead-ending on Damnation Buttress. Depending on the snow pack, you may find a few more ice bulges, some loose rocky scrambling, or just snow all the way to the top.

This climb was a good learning experience for me. Last year, I climbed it as my first winter route in Huntington's. We pitched out the entire route, took all day to get to the top, and I spent 2/3rds of my time shivering at a belay. This year I simul-soled the route with a friend. We carried a rope and pro, but felt comfortable enough not to use it, and topped out in less than an hour.

Location

From the floor of the ravine, Yale Gully will appear as a shallow gully running all the way to the lip. It is the next gully left of the easy to identify Damnation Gully. The is a small ice cliff a bit to the left of the start.

Protection

A few screws, possibly some pickets and rock gear.

Photos

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