Type: Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), Grade III
FA: W.L. Putnam and Andy Kauffman 1943; Underhill & O'Brien in 1929 climbed rock left of the steepest ice
Page Views: 19,897 total · 115/month
Shared By: Adam Wilcox on Jan 16, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

The longest gully in Huntington's. If you belay each pitch, (or rope simul-climb it) rock gear will be very helpful.

Crampon your way up the steepening snow slope into the deep, narrow gully. After a few hundred feet you'll come to a short grade 3 / 3+ ice bulge. [Editor's note: The FA bypassed this on rock, the bulge was first climbed by a party led W. Putnam cica 1941-42; at that time it was probably the steepest single 15-20 feet of ice climbed in the Northeast. While Pinnacle Gully's 3 section is much longer, it is generally less steep. R.Hall] Surmount the ice bulge and continue on your merry way up more steep snow with intermittent icy or rocky sections. The gully splits near the top. Trending left will take you up snow and frozen turf to the lip of the ravine. Going right looks like tricky mixed climbing, though I'm sure it would go for the right person.

On my trip up there was a substantial cornice forming what looked like an unavoidable vertical to overhanging snow finish (possibly unstable?). Fortunately, with the help of a few rock moves and some frozen moss, I was able to bypass the cornice on the far left.

Also, (soloists especially!) beware of ice dams on this particular route when conditions warrant. An exploding pressurized ice bulge caused a fatality here a number of years ago.

Location Suggest change

Second gully from the right. Starts very close to the bottom of North Gully.

Protection Suggest change

A handful of screws and rock gear. (0.5 (purple) Camalot useful above the crux.) Perhaps some pickets. Some fixed gear here and there.

On a windy day on this route I was periodically showered with chunks of ice up to the size of a baseball. I was very happy to have my helmet.