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Routes in Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice Climbing

Central Gully WI1
Damnation Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3- M2-3
Damnation Gully WI3
Diagonal Gully
Escape Hatch T
North Gully WI3
Odell's Gully WI2-3
Pinnacle Gully WI3
South gully WI1 PG13
Yale Gully WI2-3
Type: Ice, Alpine, 600 ft
FA: Noel Odell, Lincoln O'Brien, , J.C Hurd, and Robert Underhill March 16, 1928
Page Views: 9,391 total, 90/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Jun 2, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This is the classic wide open gully to the left of the Pinnacle Buttress. Noel Odell was, of course, the last person to see George Mallory alive.

After an initial easy section, you can choose a number of variations, all relatively moderate. [Although "Odell's Right" can develop short vertical sections and pre-1969, i.e. pre-drooped axes, was considered one of the hardest ice pitches in New England, technically harder than Pinnacle]. These generally lead to much easier ground just below the Alpine Gardens. It is worth noting that due to the ample low-angle snow slope above the climb, Odell's is particularly vulnerable to avalanche danger. Be very careful in assessing conditions and pay attention to the USFS forecasts.

tuckerman.org/safety/safety…
tuckerman.org/avalanche/ind…

A number of serious accidents/episodes have occurred with regard to this moderate climb the most famous of which was the 1982 Hugh Herr/Jeff Batzer rescue. Odell's was the last ice climb I did in New Hampshire and thoughts of others' previous mishaps plagued what should have been a relatively mellow solo climb, especially when the wet heavy snow thumped and subsided as I kicked my way up the final stretch of the gully. Be careful up here.

Location

Easily located just left of the Pinnacle Buttress. Descend by heading south across the Alpine Gardens towards Lion's Head or more quickly east down the Escape Hatch. Make sure that you have a good sense of direction and a compass if the weather deteriorates.

Protection

A small rack of screws
Lost a 13cm (yellow) Petzl Laser Speed Screw on Friday 3/17/17 (marked with green paint). Reward if found and returned. Thanks. 814-448-8599 Mar 21, 2017