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Routes in Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice Climbing

Central Gully WI1
Damnation Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3- M2-3
Damnation Gully WI3
Diagonal Gully
Escape Hatch T
North Gully WI3
Odell's Gully WI2-3
Pinnacle Gully WI3
South gully WI1 PG13
Yale Gully WI2-3
Type: Ice, Alpine, Grade II
FA: A.J. Holden & N.L. Goodrich 2/23/1927
Page Views: 9,121 total, 68/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 25, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

First ascent in Huntington Ravine - also one of the longest routes in the ravine. Watch for avalanches.

Editor's Note: The ice grade varies greatly depending on the amount of snow, from the NE Ice "1" (I'm not really sure what that is, since I thought "Ice "1" was used for very moderate glacial travel.) to about "2 / 2+" when there's little snow and lots of water & cold. This is a long climb, second only to Damnation in length, although most of it is higher-angle snow. (R. Hall)

Location

Once you hit the Alpine Garden from the top of the climb, you can either descend down the climb (if you're comfortable on this "steep" terrain) or walk left to the Escape Hatch or take Lion Head Trail (recommended - provides an amazing walk along the Alpine Garden). Or follow the cairns to the summit - can follow several trails or the auto road off the mountain. The auto road will not drop you off at Pinkham Notch, so only use in emergency situations.

Protection

Snow stakes & ice screws
Rutherc Rutherfurd
Draper, UT
Rutherc Rutherfurd   Draper, UT
There's one step of ice at a constriction half way up the route. In high snow years, this ice can be completely covered in snow at which point the route becomes a snow climb and an excellent option for descent. Feb 21, 2017