Elevation: 4,403 ft
GPS: 44.273, -71.287 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 73,673 total · 495/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 25, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
Getting weather forecast...

Description

NOTE: The summer rock climbs in Huntington Ravine have been moved under "WM:Presidential Summer Rock Routes / Huntington Ravive."

Can be crowded during mid-winter weekends due to its proximity to Boston, Canada & NYC.

Getting There

From Pinkham Notch take the Tuckerman Ravine Trail to the Huntington Ravine Trail. This will drop you at the base of all the climbs; quite a beautiful site with many options.

10 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3
 140
Pinnacle Gully
Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
WI1
 37
Central Gully
Ice, Alpine
WI2-3
 63
Odell's Gully
Ice, Alpine
WI3
 40
Damnation Gully
Trad, Ice, Alpine
WI2-3 Easy Snow
 22
Yale Gully
Ice, Snow, Alpine
WI3
 14
North Gully
Ice, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3- M2-3
 7
Damnation Buttress
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pinnacle Gully
 140
WI3 Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Central Gully
 37
WI1 Ice, Alpine
Odell's Gully
 63
WI2-3 Ice, Alpine
Damnation Gully
 40
WI3 Trad, Ice, Alpine
Yale Gully
 22
WI2-3 Easy Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine
North Gully
 14
WI3 Ice, Alpine
Damnation Buttress
 7
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3- M2-3 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
bradley white   Bend
Huntington Ravine has been climbed since the 1930's. The Pinnacle Buttress climbs vary from extreme aid (North wall above Pinnacle Gully) to easy moderate (East facing face).

Most climbers start Pinnacle at the base of the gully and traverse up south via a ledge ramp onto the face. There are lots of variations but climbing is limited to one section of the buttress. Lots of fixed pins on the crux section on the east face that is the 3rd pitch. So many pins that it can be confusing on this pitch. Basically the more direct and to the right a climber goes on this pitch the harder the climbing is. The hardness is between (5-8 or 9). At this section if a climber breaks out left at the first encounter of difficulty the climbing it will get easier quickly. Also this steep wall of the 3rd pitch can be avoided by climbing far to the left up a ramp at about (5-5). After the 3rd pitch stay near the north edge of the buttress. Highly exposed and easy (5-4) for 2 more pitches up this ridge. From the top of Buttress hike down anyway you want or summit Mt. Washington. I haven't been to the buttress in decades. Then there were no rappel anchors. Escape meant leaving gear. There isn't any special gear needed to do the east face and a minimal trad rack will do with one rope.

The central Gully Buttress head wall is a different story. This area is between Pinnacle and Central Gullies. All the climbs I know of encounter extreme (5-10) moves at least. Route finding is problematic. The wall is about 700+ft. and longer if you include the fourth class finishing after the steep stuff. The climbs have long run outs on the slab sections. It would be best to use a guidebook's route description to ascend this wall.

The rock is unique to N.H. It is coarse and knobby therefore remains sticky in damp conditions. The weather is serious here. Climbers are forced off this area because of sudden temperature drops and it is impossible to see bad weather coming in from the west. It's as alpine as N.H. gets. Views are spectacular. Jun 24, 2009
AWinters   NH  
great description, Bradley. this should be moved to the top of the page. Jan 9, 2011
Jackson Yip
San Jose, CA
Jackson Yip   San Jose, CA
just a heads up, a good thing to know if you are new to the ravine is that there is a guide board showing the routes that are in the ravine just out side of the harvard cabin on the fire road leading to the ravine, it's adjacent to the avalanche board. Sep 13, 2012