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Central Gully

WI1 Steep Snow, Ice, Snow, Alpine, Grade II,  Avg: 2.9 from 55 votes
FA: A.J. Holden & N.L. Goodrich 2/23/1927
New Hampshire > NH Ice & Mixed > Mt Washington > Huntington Ravine - W…

Description

First ascent in Huntington Ravine - also one of the longest routes in the ravine. Watch for avalanches.

Editor's Note: The ice grade varies greatly depending on the amount of snow, from the NE Ice "1" (I'm not really sure what that is, since I thought "Ice "1" was used for very moderate glacial travel.) to about "2 / 2+" when there's little snow and lots of water & cold. This is a long climb, second only to Damnation in length, although most of it is higher-angle snow. (R. Hall)

Location

Once you hit the Alpine Garden from the top of the climb, you can either descend down the climb (if you're comfortable on this "steep" terrain) or walk left to the Escape Hatch or take Lion Head Trail (recommended - provides an amazing walk along the Alpine Garden). Or follow the cairns to the summit - can follow several trails or the auto road off the mountain. The auto road will not drop you off at Pinkham Notch, so only use in emergency situations.

Protection

Snow stakes & ice screws

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Central Gully RT and the start of Pinnacle Gully behind the foreground buttress (Pinnacle Buttress). Note the ice bulge on Central Gully 1/2 way up the route (at time of photograph, Feb 2017, covered in snow).
[Hide Photo] Central Gully RT and the start of Pinnacle Gully behind the foreground buttress (Pinnacle Buttress). Note the ice bulge on Central Gully 1/2 way up the route (at time of photograph, Feb 2017, cover…
Pitch 2 in december 2022
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2 in december 2022
Dawn on Huntington's Ravine - Central Gully in the middle
[Hide Photo] Dawn on Huntington's Ravine - Central Gully in the middle
Central Gully
[Hide Photo] Central Gully
student climber exiting Central Gully in March 1996
[Hide Photo] student climber exiting Central Gully in March 1996
Chris Roma tackling the small ice section on 3/23/23. This section was maybe 15' or so, the rest was moderate to steep snow climbing.
[Hide Photo] Chris Roma tackling the small ice section on 3/23/23. This section was maybe 15' or so, the rest was moderate to steep snow climbing.
Navigating the 30 meter low angle ice pitch on a very low snow year
[Hide Photo] Navigating the 30 meter low angle ice pitch on a very low snow year
Looking down Central before a spring ski descent.
[Hide Photo] Looking down Central before a spring ski descent.
Looking down Central gully
[Hide Photo] Looking down Central gully
Looking up Central Gully
[Hide Photo] Looking up Central Gully
Great long ski line
[Hide Photo] Great long ski line
Topping out as clouds roll in.
[Hide Photo] Topping out as clouds roll in.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rutherc XYZ
Boston, MA
[Hide Comment] There's one step of ice at a constriction half way up the route. In high snow years, this ice can be completely covered in snow at which point the route becomes a snow climb and an excellent option for descent. Feb 21, 2017
Nate Williams
Bozeman, MT
[Hide Comment] I would much rather descend diagonal or escape hatch..... Dec 8, 2021
Sean Carlin
Lisbon, NH
  WI2- Mod. Snow
[Hide Comment] Trip report from 12/8: low snow coverage in the ravine. Recent freeze/thaw cycle had the streams on the approach really ripping. Drifted pockets/terrain traps abundant in the Fan and the brush along the approach. Majority of snow slab on route was very firm and stable. Roughly 50-60 meters or so of WI2+ or WI2 on the actual climb, did it with a couple screws but it would have been nice to have 6-8. Very gluey ice hugging climber's left. Relatively comfortable soloing above the ice pitches to the top out. Dec 14, 2022