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Routes in Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice Climbing

Central Gully WI1
Damnation Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3- M2-3
Damnation Gully WI3
Diagonal Gully
Escape Hatch T
North Gully WI3
Odell's Gully WI2-3
Pinnacle Gully WI3
South gully WI1 PG13
Yale Gully WI2-3
Type: Ice, Alpine, 500 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,093 total, 27/month
Shared By: Antoine Grenier on Aug 10, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Great snow climb with a small ice bulge in the middle. Good alternative to central gully. Avalanche terrain so get info from rangers before heading out and stay aware while on route.

Location

Left-most gully in the ravine, follow the obvious snow ramp to the extreme left of the fan.

Protection

Ice axe, a couple of snow pickets and some ice screws can make your climb safer. You top out in the alpine garden.

Photos

Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
This is a wonderful long snow gully. A great nice-day romp that you can do really fast. If the ravine is nasty (especially up in the Alpine Garden), then this is a great alternative to Central Gully because you top out lower and can easily scoot down the Escape Hatch, or down South Gully itself (conditions permitting). I once caught the climb in absolutely perfect snow conditions. The bowl was utterly full of snow and the climb itself was pristine, with a firm base layer and a nice fresh coating of fluff. The avi danger was nil. I dropped my pack in the bowl near the bottom and scampered up the gully, making sure not to climb directly up the flutes in the middle of the gully (I was thinking ahead). Once atop, I took off my crampons, sat in the biggest flute, and rode the powder all the way to the bottom. It was so fun! I couldn't see a blasted thing because of the snow-spray coming off my boots, and at one point my butt got pretty hot from friction with the hard-pack underneath, but there was nothing to hit and I was well contained inside the trough, so I just let 'er rip, ice ax raised over my head and whooping the whole way down. The ride seemed to go on forever, but it was probably a minute, more or less, and as the gully flattened out I slowly lost speed and then came to a perfect stop atop my pillow of fluff. After I cleared all the snow off me and removed my encrusted goggles I found that I was so close to my pack that I could just casually toss my ax over to it. Best Glissade Ever! 6 days ago