jonathan howland > Comments

Dec 14, 2025 Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Inner Gorge > Supreme Wizard Formation Katnap 5.9 ● 13 bolts (not 17) View Comment
Sep 14, 2024 Eastern Sierra > Mammoth Lakes Area > Lake George > Crystal Crag > Schoolboy Buttress Bagpipe 5.10- ● Neither 10- nor 11a but rather some sweet spot between. Excellent, steep route with positive edges and goo… View Comment
Sep 7, 2024 Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley S Side > A. Clouds Rest > W Face My Favorite Things 5.9 ● 5.9 R adventure climbing Routefinding – macro and micro – is part of the package. Belays are indeed bolted… View Comment
Aug 20, 2024 Eastern Sierra > Lee Vining Cany… > Tioga Cliff Are… > Quaking Aspen Wall Quaking Aspen 5.9+ ● A #4 protects the crack below and left of the crux (#3 is fairly tipped out). A cam in the horizontal (~or… View Comment
Dec 3, 2023 Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Juniper Canyon > Jackrabbit Buttress Rose Hips 5.7+ ● Good route – and, as others note, not for the new-to-the-business trad leader. Nearby "Saddle Up," for inst… View Comment
Nov 25, 2022 Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Windy Peak > S Face Hot Fudge Thursday 5.9 ● We felt HTF deserves 3+ stars – and found the upper half nearly as engaging as the lower. Great position, f… View Comment
Oct 27, 2022 Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Lower Gorge > Muppets Wall Gritty Gritty Bang Bang 5.10b ● I'm with Bill – good route. Lulls you in, wakes you up. Trickery up high. Says 90' here. The book says 115… View Comment
Nov 21, 2021 Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Inner Gorge > P.T. Barnum Wall Creatures of Habit 5.11b ● Imagine the Lewis / Hensell / Scheuerell lads had broken up, like the Beatles, years ago and in their prime… View Comment
Nov 21, 2021 Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Inner Gorge > P.T. Barnum Wall Best of Both Worlds 5.11a ● Moves readily into my favorite five of ORG routes – varied, sustained 5.10 climbing with three hard section… View Comment
Nov 14, 2021 Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Inner Gorge > Supreme Wizard Formation His Spirit 5.9 ● not understanding the votes here – I'd say a candidate for best 5.9 in the ORG (though perhaps a reach for… View Comment
Nov 9, 2021 Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Inner Gorge > DMZ Transcendence 5.10c ● 15 years after – another go at Transcendence. Run out as sport climbs go (4 bolts in 60+ feet). At the… View Comment
Oct 5, 2021 Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Juniper Canyon > Brownstone Wall High Anxiety 5.10 PG13 ● Posting a note b/c I thought HA both better and harder than others here indicate. Props to the Uriostes!… View Comment
Oct 3, 2021 Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Juniper Canyon > Ginger Buttress Power Failure 5.10 ● Great route – natural line, fabulous climbing, light rack. Of the well travelled quad in the area, I'd rat… View Comment
Oct 2, 2021 Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Pine Creek Canyon > Three Hour Buttress Three Hour Arete 5.10b ● Great route. Am struck by the wide range of opinions about the difficulty of indiv. pitches/moves. We d… View Comment
May 31, 2021 Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Central Gorge > Player's Club Be a Player 5.10a ● best 10a in the ORG? A candidate, to be sure. View Comment
Mar 18, 2021 Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Central Gorge > Riverside Island Storm Shadow 5.11- ● For length and position Storm Shadow earns two stars. Its fraternal twin to the right is vastly better – c… View Comment
Feb 24, 2021 Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Upper Gorge > Flavin Haven Jaws of Life 5.10b ● Yes, Jaws is tougher / more physical than Wacked Scenario. For anyone on the fence: it's clean hands on P… View Comment
Sep 28, 2020 Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Black Velvet Ca… > Black Velvet Wall Norepinephrine 5.10b PG13 ● An outstanding route for position, climbing, even variety. Pitches one and two are good/fun. 3-6 are outsta… View Comment
Jul 12, 2013 High Sierra > 08 - Bishop Pas… > Mt Goode North Buttress 5.9 ● 1. Of the topos/beta in circulation, MP is most reliable. 6 pitches w/ 60 m. rope. 2. Don't do this route… View Comment
Jul 7, 2013 Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Upper Gorge > Gorgeous Towers Road to Cala Gonone 5.9 ● 95 feet long, and 12 bolts, I think. 5.9 move or two. Worthy addition -- thank you RZ or whoever did the… View Comment
Nov 21, 2012 Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Upper Gorge > Gotham City In the Pink 5.10c ● cams to red C4 do the trick. do take the little guys. the crack just at the crux gathers dirt/sand -- scr… View Comment
Aug 16, 2010 Eastern Sierra > Mammoth Lakes Area > Rock Creek > Gong Show Wall Eavesdropping 5.10d ● I think the above description fair, but I'd give this pitch more plaudits/stars. It's got it all — steep o… View Comment
May 9, 2010 Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Upper Gorge > Gorgeous Towers 2 Feet to Hell 5.11a ● Better than the Lewis guide indicates. Crux near 2nd bolt, but the climbing above is quite good, incl. the… View Comment
Jul 3, 2009 Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Pine Creek Canyon > Scheelite Canyo… > Armando's Stilletto /… Rites of Spring 5.10d ● Best 5.10 route on the East Side in my view -- every pitch good, and every pitch better than its predecesso… View Comment
Jul 3, 2009 Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Pine Creek Canyon > Scheelite Canyo… > Pratt's Crack / Dihed… Sheila 5.10b ● Re: the 6 inch piece the first commentator didn't place -- it very nicely protects the crux lieback move.… View Comment
Apr 19, 2009 Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Central Gorge > Pub Wall Hardly Wallbanger 5.10c ● "15 draws or so"? Try 9 -- and slings or something for the substantial anchors if someone else is cleaning… View Comment
Apr 16, 2009 Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Central Gorge > Upper Crust Feudal Beerlords 5.10c ● Lewis's guide gives this a 10d; the previous edition had it at 10c. I'll call it hard 5.10 through the fir… View Comment
Oct 13, 2008 Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Lower Gorge > Warning Signs Power Surge 5.10b ● My partner and I -- veterans of many trad lines in the ORG -- both thought the bottom quite hard for 10b if… View Comment
Jun 28, 2008 Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Lembert Dome > Northwest Face Crying Time Again 5.10a ● A Crying Time rack: one red C3, one blue TCU, one green C4 and a red or yellow C4 (for the anchor below the… View Comment
Jun 27, 2008 Southern-Wester… > Southern Sierra… > Needles > Sorcerer Thin Ice 5.10b ● A team ahead of us was rapping from the end of P1, advertising they "heard P2 isn't that good." Pardon the… View Comment
Jun 27, 2008 Southern-Wester… > Southern Sierra… > Needles > Voodoo Dome White Punks on Dope 5.9- PG13 ● Did WP for the second time on 6/21/08 with JP Webb and Matt Hern and was impressed with how very good and v… View Comment
Jun 26, 2008 Southern-Wester… > Southern Sierra… > Needles Voodoo Dome ● Corrections and amendments to the above: Approach: park exactly 2.8 miles past Lower Peppermint campgroun… View Comment
Nov 25, 2007 Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Upper Gorge > Failsafe Wall Controversial Insert 5.10d ● Said "wudge" move protects nicely with a #3 Camalot. We thought this the crux of the pitch. C.I./Flailsaf… View Comment
May 24, 2007 Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Central Gorge > Solarium Sabado Gigante 5.8 ● Yes (to prev. comment). And if Marty's endowing SG with the status cited above isn't sufficient incentive… View Comment
May 10, 2007 Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley S Side > D. Half Dome > 1. Northwest Face Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome (RNWF) 5.9 C1 ● Taking issue with the previous remark, which disinclined (but didn't dissuade) me from attempting this rout… View Comment
Apr 30, 2007 Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Upper Gorge > Cracked Towers Swamp Thing 5.9 ● ...And -- more important -- have your belayer wear a helmet. And once the leader gets 20 feet off the dec… View Comment

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jonathan howland > Comments

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