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Routes in Cracked Towers

And Monkeys Might Fly Out My Butt S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
M.O. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scalded By Spivey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silence of the Poodles T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swamp Thing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Bob Harrington et. al. GU 1978
Page Views: 341 total, 3/month
Shared By: Kevin Friedrich on Apr 20, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

Swamp thing is apparently the first route in the Gorge, but more importantly it is one of the most exciting routes i've done at the place. It starts off the little pole-bridge that crosses to the dihedrals, and follows a hand crack that widens to a fun off-width section. From this a bolt protects a cruxy and somewhat dirty corner crux. After passing this crux a splitter, proud, and elegant hand crack awaits, which leads into a intriguing bomb-bay of lose blocks. The belay for this bad boy is an old sling between two 1/4" bolts. Bring your own sling if you feel like it, it may be a good idea.

Location

Right in the middle of cracked towers, this line is proud and easily identified.

Protection

The book says gear to 3.5". But pro that's 3-3.5" you wouldn't want to stick in since the wide places are kinda loose. 1 bolt exists halfway up the route and the anchor is an old school american triangle with 2 1/4' bolts. Wear a helmet.

Photos

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...And -- more important -- have your belayer wear a helmet. And once the leader gets 20 feet off the deck, stand to the side (up and to the right), as the shower of pebbles and debris is more appealing from this vantage.
ST is easier and (much dirtier) than Silence/Poodles if a little more interesting to protect, but, in any case, a must-do on account of its being historic.
One of the bolts has a rap ring on it. Apr 30, 2007