Best of Both Worlds
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Type: | Sport, 125 ft (38 m) |
FA: | Jeff Scheuerell, Darrell Hensel, Marty Lewis |
Page Views: | 1,075 total · 22/month |
Shared By: | Jeff Scheuerell on Feb 13, 2021 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
This route might not be the very best part of Highwire but climbs the best, awesome, clean hand and finger cracks of Shafted and replaces the lesser parts of Shafted with fun face climbing that follows positive edges and jugs throughout. Start with the clean hand crack of Shafted then just after Shafted gets wide, at about the 5th or 6th bolt, move out left to a bolt and then join Highwire. Continue up the great face of Highwire. Then at the mini roof, just below the crux of Highwire, clip a bolt out right and make a tricky 11a move right to a stance in the corner of Shafted. Follow the10c fingers corner of Shafted to the anchor.
Best to have an 80m rope for this route although one could get by with a shorter rope using the mid anchor of Shafted.
4 Comments