Elevation: 4,527 ft
GPS: 37.446, -118.572 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 837,275 total · 5,192/month
Shared By: Tom Helvie on Jul 20, 2006 with improvements by Sean Post and 1 other
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Description

The Owens River Gorge is California's most concentrated sport-climbing area. It is really a year-round crag, although summers can be a bit hot. There are many moderate sport climbs in the sub 5.10 range, but the best gorge climbs seem to be in the 5.10-5.11 range. The climbing is on volcanic tuff and features edges, pockets and cracks. Most of the climbing is close to vertical but there are some steep lines as well, namely at the Eldorado Roof and the Dilithium Crystal. Most climbs, whether face, crack, corner, even off-width and chimney, are fully sport bolted. There are some good trad lines, but sport climbing is why you're here. The gorge is often crowded but if you hike a little further you can usually find some solitude. The Warm Up Wall, the Pub, the Social Platform, the China Wall and the Dilithium Crystal are the most popular areas. Please buy Marty Lewis' "Owens River Gorge Climbs" if you are going to climb here. It's a great guide to the hundreds of climbs and you'll feel good supporting the guy who put up a huge percentage of the climbs and did a large amount of work (trails, research, bridges, talking with the LADWP that owns the gorge). It's a small price to pay for a great climbing area. You can find the 11th edition of the guidebook here.

Getting There

From Bishop go North on 395 to the Paradise Swall Meadows exit and turn right. Go approximately 1/2 mile and at the T intersection turn left (Gorge Rd). There are 3 parking areas to choose depending on where in the Gorge you wish to climb. The first parking area is 3.3 miles from the intersection of Gorge road and 395. Adjacent to the parking area you will go through a gate and follow the paved central gorge power station road for 1 mile down to the Central gorge power station. The second parking area also accesses the central gorge and ends just uphill from the central gorge power station. You will find a trail adjacent to the parking area that goes down a steep 2nd/3rd class loose gully. Be careful not to dislodge anything because there are climbs below the gully. This parking area is 4.8 miles up the Gorge road from the intersection of Gorge Road and 395. The last parking area is for the upper gorge. This parking area is 6.4 miles up Gorge Road from the intersection of Gorge Road and 395. You will park off the pavement and walk through a gate down the paved upper power plant road approximately 1/2 mile then drop into a 3rd class gully. There is a trail along the entire length of the bottom of the gorge so you can use any of the access points to access all climbs at Owens. There is an alternate way to get to the Gorge Road from the North. Approximately 1 mile south of Tom's Place there is a dirt road that goes East. This road starts at a sign on 395 that says Sherwin Pass 7000 feet (Beware you have to cut across a double yellow line to make the turn).  Follow the road to the right heading east and follow the power lines.   This road isn't well maintained, there are many rocks poking out of the road and decent size ruts in the road (not a great road for cars).
One of the coolest things I have ever climbed!

713 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Owens River Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 137
Dr. Evil
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 101
Lava Haul
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 144
Sendero Luminoso
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 216
Gorgeous
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 89
Wacked Scenario
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 229
Hardly Wallbanger
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 108
Superfly
Sport 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 160
Yellow Peril
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 114
Pick Pocket
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 110
O.R.G.asam
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 78
Love Stinks
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 169
Expressway
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 125
Grindrite
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 97
Knucko's Pride of the North
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 107
From Chocolate to Morphine
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dr. Evil Upper Gorge > Gotham City
 137
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Lava Haul Upper Gorge > Flavin Haven
 101
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Sendero Luminoso Central Gorge > Solarium
 144
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Sport
Gorgeous Upper Gorge > Gorgeous Towers
 216
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Wacked Scenario Upper Gorge > Gorgeous Towers
 89
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Hardly Wallbanger Central Gorge > Pub Wall
 229
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Superfly Upper Gorge > Gotham City
 108
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Yellow Peril Central Gorge > Great Wall of China
 160
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Pick Pocket Upper Gorge > Holy Trinity
 114
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
O.R.G.asam Upper Gorge > Dihedrals
 110
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Love Stinks Central Gorge > Banana Belt
 78
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Expressway Central Gorge > Social Platform
 169
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Grindrite Upper Gorge > Gotham City
 125
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Knucko's Pride of the North Upper Gorge > Gorgeous Towers
 97
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
From Chocolate to Morphine Central Gorge > Faulty Tower
 107
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Owens River Gorge »

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