Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Gary Slate, Charlie Johnson, Marty Lewis - May, 1991
Page Views: 3,871 total · 26/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Oct 30, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


110 Opinions

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Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

This line is just right of Hardly Wallbanger (5.10c). It is slightly shorter but a little harder. There is a hard section pulling a roof, but the pump factor on the upper part of the climb is probably the real crux.

Protection

A dozen draws or so.

Photos

C Miller
CA
  5.11b
C Miller   CA  
  5.11b
Another great route with mostly moderate climbing and a distinct crux about mid-height over a small roof. There is another semi-difficult section before the anchors, but it's really a matter of fitness - if you're not pumped it's quite doable, and if you are...c-ya! Oct 30, 2006
I think this is a spectacular climb - just graceful, moderately sustained, and well-positioned - better than Hardly. **** Jan 12, 2007
426
 
426  
 
Way fun climbing; use a long rope...or tie a knott... Mar 26, 2007
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.11b
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.11b
Fantastic pitch. Once the overhang is pulled it is fairly constant all the way to the anchors. The holds are all there and positive, but it is sustained. Mar 26, 2007
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
another really fun route on this wall! sweet sidepull moves at what I thought was the crux and sloper jug run to the anchor. cool! May 28, 2011
Jean Spencer
Squamish, CA
Jean Spencer   Squamish, CA
I thought the crux came on the face right after pulling the roof. Great pitch. Apr 6, 2012
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.11b
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.11b
great climb, all the moves are there, just fight the PUMP!! Nov 18, 2014
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b
What a great pitch, three distinct cruxes provide a good challenge for the 5.11 leader. Moving past the first roof is the easiest of them, imho. The sting in the tail going for the chains was my favorite part, no free ride to the chains on this one! Nov 29, 2014