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Routes in Pub Wall

Abitafun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Abitarot S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Belayer Slayer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gary Gray S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gringuita S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hammered S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hardly Wallbanger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Ball S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Homebrew S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hungover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Light Within S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Menace to Sobriety S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Not Too Stout S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Set Free S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of Belayer Slayer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Wonderbar S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Bruce Lella, Marty Lewis, & Fred Berman - November, 1992
Page Views: 5,421 total · 37/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Oct 30, 2006 with updates from old5ten
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

On the main face of the Pub Wall there are three or four lines. This one climbs the face just right of the wide crack past a couple bolts to a rest ledge. From here follow the thin crack and face up the slightly overhanging wall to an anchor.

Protection

10 draws or so. Originally led on natural gear.

Photos

C Miller
CA
  5.10c
C Miller   CA  
  5.10c
A Gorge classic with sustained climbing along a bolted crack system, which means those with crack technique may find this easier than those without. The guidebook notes this as the "steepest 10c in the Gorge". Oct 30, 2006
Tom Helvie
Bishop, CA
  5.10c
Tom Helvie   Bishop, CA
  5.10c
Polished, buffed, slippery, but...it's damn fun climbing. Great jug hauling with a few jams and locks thrown in. I would give it 4 stars if it weren't so buffed out. I guess the overuse is a testament to how good the climb is? Dec 19, 2006
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.10c
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.10c
Nice climb. The crack offers really good positive laybacks almost all the way up. May 29, 2007
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.10c
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.10c
I don't want to alarm anyone, but I have heard of a least one occurrence of a rattle snake found 2/3 of the way up this climb, casually chillin' avoiding the heat in July. Nov 9, 2007
jonathan howland
San Francisco
jonathan howland   San Francisco
"15 draws or so"? Try 9 -- and slings or something for the substantial anchors if someone else is cleaning (esp. if your whole group is going to seige it).
One of HW's distinctive features is the bolts themselves -- huge hooks. These guys weren't messing around, rattlesnakes or no. Apr 19, 2009
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
awesome route! I mean, really awesome! cool moves. you can do it all with finger locks or all with jugs, or any combination of the two... it's still steep and fun! May 28, 2011
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
Didn't really think this route was all that it's cracked up to be. Sharp and kind of loose. Definitely a lot of steep, juggy climbing, but the whole gorge is full of steep, juggy climbing. Mar 31, 2014
Rick Ziegler  
 
I think this is a great climb. But there are several loose blocks on the upper half of the route. Climbers and belayers be careful.
Also, looks like the old hangers have been replaced with new ASCA bolts! Jan 24, 2015
Pavel Burov
Russia
 
Pavel Burov   Russia
 
As on May 25, 2015 there are some loose blocks on the upper parts of the climb. Gently check every and any block before grabbing it. May 26, 2015
Tatiana Cottam
Oakland, CA
  5.10c
Tatiana Cottam   Oakland, CA
  5.10c
Didn't find anything sharp/loose/polished/slippery on this climb. Good rests after most moves, which makes the steep nature of the climb very manageable. Gotta love the bolted crack climbs in Owens! Jan 17, 2018

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