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Routes in Pub Wall

Abitafun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Abitarot S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Belayer Slayer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gary Gray S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gringuita S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hammered S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hardly Wallbanger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Ball S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Homebrew S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hungover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Light Within S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Menace to Sobriety S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Not Too Stout S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Set Free S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of Belayer Slayer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Wonderbar S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: kelly cordner, Margy Marshall
Page Views: 1,262 total, 20/month
Shared By: kelly cordner on Oct 27, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

Cruxes above the 2nd bolt and at the bulge 1/3 of the way up. a 70m rope stretcher. As good a rock quality as any route on the main PUB formation, much better than "Belayer Slayer". An excellent and long warm-up. Many big holds!

Location

between "Light Within" and "Belayer Slayer". Climb up easy slab and stem left to clip the 1st bolt.

Protection

15 bolts

Photos

- No Photos -
Marek Hajek
Reno, NV
  5.10a
Marek Hajek   Reno, NV
  5.10a
For me, this is a 5 star classic route and feels like one of the best warm ups in Central Gorge. The route is about 37m long. It seems the climbing accident last year had to be due to the climber's rope being significantly shorter than 70m. The 2nd to 3rd bolt on this route is 30'/~10m up. Sounds like they were mistakenly using a 60m rope. I am glad the climber got to walk away from such a huge fall. I highly recommend using an 80m rope for this route.
While I understand the upper bolt line runs over Tempest, the old gear route, once I lead Tempest on gear back in 2006 I never had any interest in doing it again. I suspect Tempest got minimal traffic. I bet there is at least a 100:1 utilization ratio of the rock(the ratio between how frequently this route is climbed vs. Tempest), now that it has been bolted, and I would not be surprised if it was a 1000:1 ratio. The bolts won't prevent anyone from doing Tempest to the top on gear, if any climber desires such experience. Apr 21, 2017
Ensign
Zephyr Cove, NV
 
Ensign   Zephyr Cove, NV
 
There was a climbing accident on this route a few days ago. A climber was lowering her partner using a 70 meter rope and lowered her off the end of the rope. She fell from the 2nd-3rd bolt area and bounced down the slab. Fortunately she was wearing a helmet and, while she was pretty banged up, didn't initially look like she had any life or disability threatening injuries. In any case, the team was clearly under the impression that a 70 meter rope was long enough for the round trip. The belayer even said "This is a 70 meter Petzl rope - I'm going to call Petzl and ask them about it". In any case, you can get off this route with a 70, but the belayer has to climb up the slab, the climber has to untie up on the slab, then both must do the (very easy but unprotected) downclimb. The better alternative is to rap to the top anchor of 'Light within' that is just to the left. Oct 29, 2016
kelly cordner
Fish Lake Valley, NV
 
kelly cordner   Fish Lake Valley, NV
 
sorry to offend your sensibilities Marty. Hows about that tower and those power lines! The chains have been up there for 3 years. I added them because the anchors were too high, widely spaced and above a break. The rope kinks less and runs cleaner. The climb also works better for short 70m ropes. Next time I'll get Gorge Grey but the hardware store was out.:) Apr 28, 2016
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
 
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
 
Just did this climb today for the first time - what a long, fun route. Highly varied with fun moves and great holds!
One of our favorite 5.10a routes we have done in the Gorge!

Thanks! May 6, 2015
Ryan Watts
Bishop, CA
  5.10a
Ryan Watts   Bishop, CA
  5.10a
Just climbed this for the first time this weekend -- I was able to lower to the ground with a 70m just fine with rope stretch.

Don't forget to bring lots of draws! Aug 11, 2014
Zirkel
Bishop, CA
  5.10a
Zirkel   Bishop, CA
  5.10a
A really nice addition to the wall, Kelly. Worthy of it's own name and a .10a rating.

But why not drop the anchors to avoid a potential accident? Is a 38 meter pitch really necessary? Sep 29, 2013