Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Pub Wall

Abitafun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Abitarot S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Belayer Slayer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gary Gray S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gringuita S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hammered S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hardly Wallbanger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Ball S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Homebrew S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hungover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Light Within S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Menace to Sobriety S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Not Too Stout S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Set Free S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of Belayer Slayer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Wonderbar S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Kelly Cordner, Theresa Otto, Derik Olso
Page Views: 940 total, 12/month
Shared By: kelly cordner on Jun 5, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

crux is at between bolt 16 and the anchors. This is a 70 meter rope stretcher!!! Lots of climbing in the 5.8 to 5.9 range. a bit chaucey on the right side in places.

Location

to the right of Set Free and Light Within

Protection

16 bolts

Photos

phylp
Upland
 
phylp   Upland
 
Many "70 M ropes" get a bit shorter with washing, some are shorter right out of the store. Be really careful with rope ends on this one. We needed to untie and do a bit of easy downclimbing on this one. Oct 12, 2017
Marek Hajek
Reno, NV
  5.9
Marek Hajek   Reno, NV
  5.9
Our son knocked a 5 lb rock off one of the ledges 80' up that landed 4' next to my wife. I think the upper section still needs cleaning.
I can't believe anyone can do this route with a 60m rope. A month ago, I watched a couple of people use a 70m rope and when the leader came down and untied both ends ended up 2m above ground (once the rope stretch reset).
I would recommend using an 80m rope for this route. Apr 21, 2017
brucy
 
brucy  
 
In the almost 6 years of this routes existence, it has in fact cleaned up- with the passage of ascentionists- to the point that it no longer is a "deadly bomb" but is actually quite fun and safe. A 60 meter rope will- on rappel- stretch to the point that the ends are slightly below the 2nd bolt allowing a pretty easy and secure 3rd class descent. As long as one is comfortable with this caveat, it can be done. Apr 13, 2016
Zirkel
Bishop, CA
 
Zirkel   Bishop, CA
 
Make sure your belayer is wearing a helmet and using a gri-gri! Sep 29, 2013
Morgan Nutting
Bishop, CA
  5.10a
Morgan Nutting   Bishop, CA
  5.10a
Is there really the need for the + rating nowadays? I did find the climb very enjoyable though, needs a little cleaning. Oct 15, 2012
Choss on top of more choss. I'd say he should of cleaned it better, but then there would be no climb. Mar 25, 2012
Well named! Aug 3, 2011