Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Pub Wall

Abitafun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Abitarot S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Belayer Slayer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gary Gray S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gringuita S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hammered S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hardly Wallbanger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Ball S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Homebrew S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hungover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Light Within S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Menace to Sobriety S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Not Too Stout S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Set Free S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of Belayer Slayer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Wonderbar S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mike Strassman, Paul Linaweaver, Scott Ayers & Austin Hearst, 9/91
Page Views: 1,125 total, 11/month
Shared By: john durr on May 25, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


42 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This excellent long face climb is left of Abitarot on a narrow face with several large blocks at the base. Easy climbing up the blocks leads to a high first bolt. Tricky climbing up to the third bolt with a hard clip. Cruise up to and pass a small roof 5.10a that has big holds just out of easy reach.

Protection

7 bolts to hooks, lower off.

Photos

- No Photos -
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
Do take care at clipping the third bolt from eroded holds.

Or... Do one more move and clip from a much more positive hold. Your hand will be above the bolt, but the bolt will still be around shoulder height. As a plus, you'll have less slack out if you blow it. Dec 7, 2015
brucy  
Do take care at clipping the third bolt from eroded holds. More then a couple climbers have paid the price by decking on the ledge below when they've pulled slack to clip and fallen before getting the rope in. Much safer with a long draw preclipped on the bolt. Dec 7, 2015
Gary was an old partner of mine from Tucson in '77 and we climbed together through the early 80's out west. Got the unfortunate call from his sister, was an avalanche. Can't recall the location. RIP old friend! Feb 17, 2011
john durr
Joshua Tree, CA
 
john durr   Joshua Tree, CA
 
I spent Christmas 1986 in Waco Tanks with a climber named Gary Grey and Paul Midkiff. I heard he died in a climbing accident in the early nineties I think. Does anyone know how this route got named? May 25, 2009