Elevation: 5,286 ft
GPS: 37.512, -118.571 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 210,492 total · 1,394/month
Shared By: Tom Helvie on Jul 20, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

Definitely the most popular area of the gorge. The Warm Up wall, the Pub, the Social Platform and the Great Wall of China are all here and almost always crowded. These areas feature tons of well traveled 5.8 - 5.11 sport climbs. The climbs highly concentrated so its possible to knock out tons of pitches in a day. There is a toilet located at the base of the approach trail. Please use it.

Getting There

Park at the Central area and hike down the steep 2nd and 3rd class gully to the dirt road. Be careful not to knock rocks off since the Pub wall is directly below the upper part of the trail.

218 Total Climbs

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Location: Central Gorge Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Central Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 246
Babushka
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 77
Paradise
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 144
Child of Light
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 195
Heart of the Sun
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 132
Abitafun
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 134
Sendero Luminoso
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 208
Hardly Wallbanger
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 150
Yellow Peril
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 92
Light Within
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 81
Peking Duck
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 71
Love Stinks
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 152
Expressway
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 110
Hungover
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 82
Mandarin Orange
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 94
From Chocolate to Morphine
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Babushka Warm Up Wall
 246
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Paradise Banana Belt
 77
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Child of Light Great Wall of China
 144
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Heart of the Sun Great Wall of China
 195
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Abitafun Pub Wall
 132
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Sendero Luminoso Solarium
 134
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Sport
Hardly Wallbanger Pub Wall
 208
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Yellow Peril Great Wall of China
 150
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Light Within Pub Wall
 92
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Peking Duck Great Wall of China
 81
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Love Stinks Banana Belt
 71
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Expressway Social Platform
 152
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Hungover Pub Wall
 110
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Mandarin Orange Great Wall of China
 82
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
From Chocolate to Morphine Faulty Tower
 94
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Central Gorge »

Weather Averages

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Sierra East Side
trying hard   Sierra East Side
Descent has been upgraded with incredible stone stairways thanks to some hard working individuals. This speeds the hike up and is much safer. (11.1.12) Some amazing classics lie down in the central. Enterprise, choclate to morphine and expressway just to name a few. Sep 9, 2010
We were there about the 25th of march 2015. Passing through on spring break. Carried out a bag garbage from the toilet. Mostly used tampons, pads and beer cans. also a bunch of TP and even some other items used as tp. People were throwing it in the bucket. The bucket has a huge crack in the bottom. Per the sign the bucket is for getting water to clean the toilet. Since it is broken it serves no purpose other than to make folks think it is a trash bin. I left the bucket there so people wont put garbage down the toilet but if someone who is in that area could replace it with a functional bucket, with"no garbage in here or in toilet" written on it folks might not leave all that trash in the toilet. Apr 10, 2015
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
The GPS coordinates for the Upper Gorge parking turn-off are: 37 30.545 N, 118 34.515 W Mar 6, 2017