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Routes in Banana Belt

Bloody Pawprints S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Butt Wipe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Environmental Terrorist S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hip Pockets T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Love Stinks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Makayla S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monsters of Rock S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nothern Lite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nuke the Whales S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Numb & Number S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Paradise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pocket Dance S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quest S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Range of Light S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spread Eagle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wedge-O S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Worm Drive S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Karine Croft
Page Views: 1,840 total, 26/month
Shared By: Tavis Ricksecker on Mar 1, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start as for Rim Job but take the right bolt line and follow steepening jugs and pockets all the way to the top of the wall. Surely a contender for the best of its grade in the Gorge, this route has become an instant classic. Anyone know the name?

Location

Up on the ledge a bit right of Love Stinks

Protection

14 bolts

Photos

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MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
  5.10c
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
  5.10c
^^One could easily place a piece of GEAR *shudder*, if one was not comfortable with the initia part.

%^)

Thanks for the suggestion, Susan! May 13, 2015
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.10c
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.10c
I agree, the bolting on the first 1/4 of the route detracts from it a bit, but regardless, the route is still classic. I hope nobody gets hurt on it but even if they do, many people will still think it's classic. I am sure, if it didn't share the start with 2 other routes that were put up prior, it would have been bolted differently. So, saying it's just stupid seems kinda stupid. May 9, 2015
brucy
  5.10b PG13
brucy  
  5.10b PG13
Fun route that would have been a good deal better with a bolt placed low on this rig above the first ledge. One day, someone might very well blow it getting to the now first bolt- since most don't pack large cams to the Gorge- and many won't be calling it such a "classic" anymore either, just stupid, or at least, a stupidly engineered classic sport route that the first ascensionists decided not to pro properly. May 9, 2015
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
^^^ Told ya Erik ^^^ Extending that bolt isn't a bad idea but it's skipping it isn't a problem either. Another to your list :) Nov 7, 2014
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
  5.10c
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
  5.10c
Just got on this climb for the first time today - one of the best of the grade in the gorge. Bring a longer draw if you are going to clip the bolt off to the left at the start of Rim Job to reduce rope drag. Really fun and varied with two good rests! Nov 6, 2014
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.10c
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.10c
Maybe only 5.8. The climb is only 10c but I've seen Croft clip every bolt.

Regardless, my vote for best 5.10 in the Gorge unless you count Blood, Sugar, Sex, Magic but that one always feels 11- to me. Jan 11, 2014
Simon W
Nowhere Land
 
Simon W   Nowhere Land
 
Very true. Clipping that bolt would not be pointless if you fell there!

If my memory serves correctly the moves are somewhere in the 5.9 range in that area.. Jan 10, 2014
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.10c
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.10c
I skip the bolt off to the left unless my second plans on leading the route as well and I leave the draws hung. But clipping it isn't pointless if you fall before getting to the next bolt..


Great route, one of my Gorge favorites Nov 17, 2013
Simon W
Nowhere Land
 
Simon W   Nowhere Land
 
Awesome climb. Looks too steep for 10c from the ground but the holds are all awesome when the climbing steepens.

I believe its 12 bolts (if you clip a bolt way off to your left when Pocket Dance parts ways with Rim Job, kind of pointless), plus 2 bolt mussy anchor.

Theme song for the upper half of the climb: youtube.com/watch?v=g8v6cZ2… Oct 9, 2013
Patty Johnson   Reno
You are so right. I just got to climb this on Sunday and she was there climbing it! Apr 3, 2012
Tom Helvie
Bishop, CA
Tom Helvie   Bishop, CA
I believe the name is Pocket Dance and I also think that Karine Croft got the FA. Mar 1, 2012
Lower off to the ledge with a 70m, need an 80m to lower all the way to the ground. Watch your rope ends! Mar 1, 2012