Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: P1: Tony Puppo & Grant Schumacher - February, 1995P2: Tony Puppo & Joe Rousek - 1994
Page Views: 2,352 total · 15/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Oct 31, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Description

Black Hole is a long, intimidating, and above all, pumpy route. It begins on the west-facing wall just right of the main buttress of the Solarium at an obvious bolted crack on the face. Climb up a weird little chimney and pull onto the face -- occasionally using the crack for the left hand but generally using face holds. This section ends at a huge ledge with a two-bolt anchor making it a nice pitch in its own right, but it is definitely not easy for 5.10. No bother, because you didn't come here to climb a vertical 5.10, you came here to climb a ridiculously steep 5.12. Put a VERY long sling on the anchor (or skip or backclean this clip) and head up the overhanging headwall. There is a tough section just past two round hueco-like holes where the climb steps up and left, then cuts back right (straight up is possible but very hard), but overall it's the pump that earns this climb the rating.

Protection

16 draws. Make sure you have a 70m cord.

Photos

C Miller
CA
5.12a
C Miller   CA  
5.12a
There are midway anchors on this route, which give the climber several options for doing the route. The 1st pitch can be done on its own and is 11c, while the 2nd pitch is 12a, and can be approached via the 1st pitch or slightly left via Focus (5.11a). Lastly, the route can be done as the rope stretcher described. Oct 31, 2006
JamesLucas Lucas
Boulder, CO
JamesLucas Lucas   Boulder, CO
pretty cool route. flux Capacitor is just as good- steeper and a little pumpier but not much harder. Jan 20, 2012
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.12b
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.12b
Right before I sent it, I broke a foothold at the top and took a huge ride. It's noticeably harder to do it in one long pitch. Apr 1, 2013
The Lewis guide says 10b to the ledge??? Feb 16, 2014
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.12a
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.12a
Not harder to do in one pitch as you can sit or even lay down on a ledge before the 2nd (crux) pitch. It's a pretty long belay session, but if you have a willing belayer, doing it in one pitch is definitely the way to go. Dec 21, 2017
Colin Brochard
Austin
  5.12a/b
Colin Brochard   Austin
  5.12a/b
What a fun pumpfest this one is. Quality movement on quality rock with cool holds! Guidebook says 12a, but I would lean 12b for this one. Got a smackdown on this at the end of the day, will have to try it again fresh to give it a fair assessment. Jan 7, 2019