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Routes in Solarium

Aberration S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Black Hole S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Direchossimo S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flux Capacitor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Flux Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Focus S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Morning Wood S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Power S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Russian Meteors S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sabado Gigante S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sendero Luminoso S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Shocker S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Snake Eyes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Split Descison S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Static Cling S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supernova S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Venom S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: P1: Tony Puppo & Grant Schumacher - February, 1995P2: Tony Puppo & Joe Rousek - 1994
Page Views: 1,880 total · 14/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Oct 31, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

Black Hole is a long, intimidating, and above all, pumpy route. It begins on the west-facing wall just right of the main buttress of the Solarium at an obvious bolted crack on the face. Climb up a weird little chimney and pull onto the face -- occasionally using the crack for the left hand but generally using face holds. This section ends at a huge ledge with a two-bolt anchor making it a nice pitch in its own right, but it is definitely not easy for 5.10. No bother, because you didn't come here to climb a vertical 5.10, you came here to climb a ridiculously steep 5.12. Put a VERY long sling on the anchor (or skip or backclean this clip) and head up the overhanging headwall. There is a tough section just past two round hueco-like holes where the climb steps up and left, then cuts back right (straight up is possible but very hard), but overall it's the pump that earns this climb the rating.

Protection

16 draws. Make sure you have a 70m cord.

Photos

Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.12a
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.12a
Not harder to do in one pitch as you can sit or even lay down on a ledge before the 2nd (crux) pitch. It's a pretty long belay session, but if you have a willing belayer, doing it in one pitch is definitely the way to go. Dec 21, 2017
The Lewis guide says 10b to the ledge??? Feb 16, 2014
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.12b
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.12b
Right before I sent it, I broke a foothold at the top and took a huge ride. It's noticeably harder to do it in one long pitch. Apr 1, 2013
pretty cool route. flux Capacitor is just as good- steeper and a little pumpier but not much harder. Jan 20, 2012
C Miller
CA
5.12a
C Miller   CA  
5.12a
There are midway anchors on this route, which give the climber several options for doing the route. The 1st pitch can be done on its own and is 11c, while the 2nd pitch is 12a, and can be approached via the 1st pitch or slightly left via Focus (5.11a). Lastly, the route can be done as the rope stretcher described. Oct 31, 2006

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