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Routes in Great Wall of China

Aurora S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beijing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Beijing Extension (11c 35m/12b 40m) S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Child of Light S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
China Doll S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Confusing Confucius S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cornercopia S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Corona S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Enter the Dragon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fortune Cookie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Geisha Girl S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Ghengis Khan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Go For The Gold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Happy Ending (Geisha Girl Extension) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Heart of the Sun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kung Pao S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Manchurian Candidate S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mandarin Orange S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Osama bin Gotten S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Peking Duck S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shogun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tiananmen Square S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tsing Tao S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tsunami S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wrath of Khan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Yellow Peril S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yellow Streak S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: 11/1999, Peter Croft, Dayle Mazzarella
Page Views: 4,574 total · 33/month
Shared By: Jon duSaint on Dec 14, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description [Edit]

Climb big holds and a fun crack up to a dihedral and above.
A 5.9 variation ("Yellow Belly") moves left after the 7th bolt to the anchors of "Peking Duck".

Protection [Edit]

11 bolts


- No Photos -
Another highlight of the bolted crack tour, this would be a much more satisfying pitch if bolts had only been placed where good gear placements did not exist. Dec 21, 2006
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
The right slanting corner at the top of the pitch is a great finish. Mar 26, 2007
While usually I am against bolting cracks, in this case it makes sense. The rock at the gorge is usually so loose to begin with that leading on gear can be quite dangerous. After being bolted and ascended hundreds of times, the rock cleans up and the results are the clean and classic lines that you encounter when you climb in the gorge today. Had this line not been bolted (I'm sure Croft could have easily led it all on gear) it never would have been climbed much, and would in all likelihood still be covered in loose rock. Would that be more satisfying to you? As it is, you are still free to lead it on gear. If you brought your rack down into the gorge with you, that is... Aug 23, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Always a fun ride. I remember hanging at the transition 7 years ago. It's so well protected there I'm not sure why I hung. Recently did it again and just kept going. Good times. Jun 1, 2008
Carl A
brooklyn, ny
Carl A   brooklyn, ny
ug. fell from the last move after my chin hook slipped. Pumped as anything and grinning like crazy after a nice whip. great climb, could be done with all gear, go for it, the crack's there. Jan 5, 2009
Javier L
Asheville, NC
Javier L   Asheville, NC
5.9 climbing until the dihedral. The 5.9 variation misses the best part (the dihedral), don't do it! Apr 25, 2012

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