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Routes in Great Wall of China

Aurora S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beijing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Beijing Extension (11c 35m/12b 40m) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Child of Light S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
China Doll S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Confusing Confucius S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cornercopia S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Corona S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Enter the Dragon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fortune Cookie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Geisha Girl S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Ghengis Khan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Go For The Gold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Happy Ending (Geisha Girl Extension) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Heart of the Sun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kung Pao S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Manchurian Candidate S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mandarin Orange S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Osama bin Gotten S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Peking Duck S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shogun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tiananmen Square S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tsing Tao S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tsunami S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wrath of Khan S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yellow Peril S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yellow Streak S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport
FA: Patrick O'Donnell
Page Views: 478 total, 10/month
Shared By: Patrick O'Donnell on Nov 19, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

To 35m: Climb straight above the new Beijing anchor into easy climbing for a few bolts. The route trends up and right through an obvious dihedral system. When the dihedral starts to trend straight up it becomes pumpy with an awkward crux over a bulge in the dihedral. Stand up over the bulge and clip the chains.

To 40m: From the 35m anchor at 11c do a huge move right to a mail slot, then another reachy move up and left to a good hold. Clip one bolt then do a bouldery move to holds and a delicate finish at another anchor above at 40m. The rock is not as good on this extra section but it has been extensively cleaned. It adds a super fun hard boulder problem at 40m with clean air time. If you have an 80m rope and want an extra challenge go for it!

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3 stars to 2nd 11c anchor 35m.

1 star to 3rd anchor (1 more bolt) at 40m. Not the greatest rock which is why I lowered the anchor, but I still end up doing it every time I get on the route. probably more like 12a. I'm probably the only one that does the 3rd extension ha ha. Jan 25, 2016
rickziegler Ziegler
  5.11b/c
rickziegler Ziegler  
  5.11b/c
Got on this again. It's cleaned up really well to the 5.11 anchor. Need to do this one more often. Nov 14, 2015
Vlad S
 
Vlad S  
 
I've tried this route a few times now over the years, every time climbing up to the very last bolt without hangs, and every time I'm stopped by the crumbly choss above the last bolt. The climbing above the last anchor is really fun up to the last 2-finger pocket before the slab. The anchor should have been placed here making a fun 12a. Above that the rock is total sh*t and doesn't deserve to be climbed. I'd give it 3 stars up to the last bolt. May 26, 2015