Type: Sport
FA: Patrick O'Donnell
Page Views: 596 total · 10/month
Shared By: Patrick O'Donnell on Nov 19, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

To 35m: Climb straight above the new Beijing anchor into easy climbing for a few bolts. The route trends up and right through an obvious dihedral system. When the dihedral starts to trend straight up it becomes pumpy with an awkward crux over a bulge in the dihedral. Stand up over the bulge and clip the chains.

To 40m: From the 35m anchor at 11c do a huge move right to a mail slot, then another reachy move up and left to a good hold. Clip one bolt then do a bouldery move to holds and a delicate finish at another anchor above at 40m. The rock is not as good on this extra section but it has been extensively cleaned. It adds a super fun hard boulder problem at 40m with clean air time. If you have an 80m rope and want an extra challenge go for it!

Protection

Bolts

Photos

- No Photos -
Vlad S
 
Vlad S  
 
I've tried this route a few times now over the years, every time climbing up to the very last bolt without hangs, and every time I'm stopped by the crumbly choss above the last bolt. The climbing above the last anchor is really fun up to the last 2-finger pocket before the slab. The anchor should have been placed here making a fun 12a. Above that the rock is total sh*t and doesn't deserve to be climbed. I'd give it 3 stars up to the last bolt. May 26, 2015
Rick Ziegler
  5.11b/c
Rick Ziegler  
  5.11b/c
Got on this again. It's cleaned up really well to the 5.11 anchor. Need to do this one more often. Nov 14, 2015
Patrick O'Donnell  
  5.11c
3 stars to 2nd 11c anchor 35m.

1 star to 3rd anchor (1 more bolt) at 40m. Not the greatest rock which is why I lowered the anchor, but I still end up doing it every time I get on the route. probably more like 12a. I'm probably the only one that does the 3rd extension ha ha. Jan 25, 2016