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Routes in Great Wall of China

Aurora S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beijing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Beijing Extension (11c 35m/12b 40m) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Child of Light S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
China Doll S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Confusing Confucius S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cornercopia S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Corona S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Enter the Dragon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fortune Cookie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Geisha Girl S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Ghengis Khan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Go For The Gold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Happy Ending (Geisha Girl Extension) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Heart of the Sun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kung Pao S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Manchurian Candidate S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mandarin Orange S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Osama bin Gotten S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Peking Duck S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shogun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tiananmen Square S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tsing Tao S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tsunami S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wrath of Khan S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yellow Peril S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yellow Streak S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Todd Graham, Marty Lewis & Bruce Lella, May 1995
Page Views: 803 total, 16/month
Shared By: Pushkar S on Nov 4, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Two pitch route with the first pitch rated at 5.10a and the second pitch rated at 5.11b.

The first pitch climbs next to a crack and is about 90 feet or so. The second pitch is a steep dihedral and is beautiful. The crux is getting out of a small overhanging section after clipping the third bolt. The climb gets easier up top, where good stemming is required.

Note: The second pitch enters the corner directly above the first pitch anchors. The route does not climb the overhanging arete to the left of the corner.

Location

The route starts about 10-15 feet left of Child of light.

Protection

First bolt is a little high but the route is well protected after that, all the way to the anchors of the second pitch. The route takes around 8-9 draws on each pitch. Both anchors have three chains with hooks.



Photos

Todd Graham
Sierra Eastside, CA
Todd Graham   Sierra Eastside, CA
Jeff -- agreed on the approach. Always hoping it will clean up with time but ya never know. Apr 13, 2016
Thanks Todd, it's one of my favorite routes in the Gorge. I just consider the first 30+' as just a semi scary shitty approach, after that it's so fun. Jan 5, 2016
Todd Graham
Sierra Eastside, CA
Todd Graham   Sierra Eastside, CA
I put this route up. Jan 5, 2016
Austin Archer
Bishop, Ca.
 
Austin Archer   Bishop, Ca.
 
80 meter rope just reaches the ground. Nov 19, 2015
T.J. Esposito
San Diego, CA
T.J. Esposito   San Diego, CA
~16 bolts to do as one pitch, two possible first pitch starts. Right one is 10a/b and pretty crumbly. Crux is tricky to figure out but you can camp out below it and figure out what to do. Higher up it rewards flexibility with fun stemming and a sweet, super-exposed, no-hands rest. Apr 28, 2014