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Routes in Great Wall of China

Aurora S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beijing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Beijing Extension (11c 35m/12b 40m) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Child of Light S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
China Doll S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Confusing Confucius S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cornercopia S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Corona S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Enter the Dragon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fortune Cookie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Geisha Girl S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Ghengis Khan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Go For The Gold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Happy Ending (Geisha Girl Extension) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Heart of the Sun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kung Pao S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Manchurian Candidate S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mandarin Orange S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Osama bin Gotten S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Peking Duck S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shogun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tiananmen Square S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tsing Tao S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tsunami S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wrath of Khan S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yellow Peril S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yellow Streak S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Kevin Calder and Marty Lewis
Page Views: 822 total, 12/month
Shared By: rickziegler Ziegler on Mar 15, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

Start on Tiananmen Square (10c, 5 bolts). Climb past Tiananmen anchors up the increasingly steep dihedral. Pull a hard move over the bulge and try not to pump out on the technical face above. Anchors replaced 3/2012.

Location

Next route to the right of Yellow Peril

Protection

35m. 12 bolts.

Photos

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Jeff Scheuerell
  5.11b/c
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.11b/c
Or not? Mar 25, 2017
Raddam6
Salt Lake
 
Raddam6   Salt Lake
 
The route is four stars after the Midway anchors. I don't think the first bolt is unreasonable. Exactly where I would have put it. There is a somewhat insecure 5.9 move before the bolt but you wouldn't get hurt badly, just a slap on the wrist of you fell. Mar 31, 2016
Simon W
Nowhere Land
 
Simon W   Nowhere Land
 
This climb is really quite excellent up top, but the start is somewhat heads up and the 10c crux on the lower section isn't anything all that special. It's a move, it's 10c, but it's not very memorable.

Very high first bolt at the start, probably too high to stick clip, and I had to do a pretty solid 5.10 move off a high right hand gaston to gain the giant flake about 15 feet off the ground, to move to the bolt at 20 feet off the ground. If you're solid at 5.11 it shouldn't be a big deal, but you're definitely in ankle breaker territory there, and the giant flake could be solid, or.. who knows!?

Either way, I'm thinking some key holds have shed off the base of this thing because it doesn't say anything about a hard move to get to the first bolt in the book.

Very worth while but be careful at the start.. Nov 11, 2015