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Routes in Great Wall of China

Aurora S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beijing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Beijing Extension (11c 35m/12b 40m) S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Child of Light S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
China Doll S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Confusing Confucius S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cornercopia S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Corona S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Enter the Dragon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fortune Cookie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Geisha Girl S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Ghengis Khan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Go For The Gold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Happy Ending (Geisha Girl Extension) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Heart of the Sun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kung Pao S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Manchurian Candidate S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mandarin Orange S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Osama bin Gotten S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Peking Duck S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shogun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tiananmen Square S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tsing Tao S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tsunami S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wrath of Khan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Yellow Peril S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yellow Streak S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Sport, 160 ft
FA: Peter Croft
Page Views: 1,131 total · 21/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Jan 12, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description [Edit]

Begin up the first pitch of the slightly loose Cornercopia, 10a, and head to the looming, rounded buttress above. A large, grainy and rounded flake will help you gain access to the blunt arête (figure out for yourself if you enter lower or higher!). Once on the arête slap through good edges, doing very fun dynamic moves to good holds and cool pockets that always appear when you need them most! Shake out...

The top houses the crux and goes through a blocky section of intricate moves, especially when compared to the wild section below. A long lock off to a hidden crimp is the business. Head leftwards to the anchors via a cool gaston flake and then a few lock offs to those two happily dangling draw. Have fun!

Location [Edit]

The stellar looking rounded buttress above Cornercopia (left of the dihedral).

Protection [Edit]

Bolts. 100m rope works good! There are midway anchors you can lower to.

Photos

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peachy spohn  
 
I was on this on 05/27/2015 and broke off the large flake just before the big pocket on the arête. I lowered off and redpointed it without the flake. Definitely harder...and involves a long lock off to a left hand gaston crimp before hitting the jug pocket. Still, very fun! May 28, 2015
Max McKinnon
San Jose, CA
Max McKinnon   San Jose, CA
I got on this thinking it was the 11b from the guidebook. 4 or so bolts up, I realized it probably wasn't 11b. Made it to the gaston plus rough arete slap. Attempted the dyno to shelf a couple times, but couldn't do it. Couldn't find much for feet on that dyno it was nuts!! :D Glad it turned out to be 13a/b not 11b haha. May 31, 2016

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